Crete Island - Levka Ori (White Mountanis)

(CHANIA) - LAKKI - PORIA - PIROU - KATSIVELI - SVOURICHTI - ROUSIÉS - PÁCHNES - TROCHARIS - KORFÍ THODORI - ANOPOLI road - ANOPOLI plateau - ARADHÉNA - AGIOS IOANNIS - SELLOUDA - AGIOS PAVLOS - AGIA ROUMELI - AGIOS PAVLOS - MARMARA - LOUTRO - ILINGIAS - SFAKIA - (CHANIA)

1^st day (WED 14/05) Departure in Prague at 10:00 and arrival at Chania Airport shortly after 17:00, with changing in Athens. As it was a lower season for that time being, only our plane landed that time in Chania and thus not too many people were there which resulted in the fact I was able to leave the airport till a half an hour. Therefore succeeded to catch a bus to the city at 17:30 (the driver waited for minutes for this local plane). Catching this bus was very important because the next bus left for one hour later and I would get by this later one in the city after about 7 o’clock p.m. It wasn’t sure if supermarkets are still open so late and I needed to buy the very important thing – a cartridge for my gas stove which I couldn’t do in the morning next day because my bus to Lakki leaves at 6:30 (when all markets are still closed). So, as I caught the earlier bus all possible problems disappeared. I bought what I needed then (including gyros and beer which is my “cultic” thing I must do as soon as I’m getting in Chania). After this dinner up-eating on a bench in the park on The Square of 1866, I left for finding a spot for an overnight somewhere on a beach. The one which I already used once was taken, so I had to go farther as far as the remoter part of the city beach. I found quite a proper place here but as it was very windy the night wasn't very nice.

2^nd day (THU 15/05) I took the bus at 06:30 and after about 30 minutes got out in Lakki. First, what I did was an inspection round if all is in the same style like 3 years ago when I was here for the last time. All was OK, all local greybeards occupied local "kafenion" carefully monitoring surrounding and the church was standing at the same place. So, I ate up my breakfast, took a water supply and set off. Description of whole this way from Lakki to the saddle of Poria can be found in my former contribution (“From Lakki to Sougia”), therefore I’m not going to repeat it. But there was one difference. I couldn’t use the way through the gorge (quite a good way which I used already twice - during the track in 2009 above mentioned but also during the holiday for two years later) because now it was so overgrown (by very prickly sprouts of brambles) that it was totally impassable. Likely reason for this state is the fact when I had been here before it was always September and the way was friendlier…. and now was the spring... So, now I had to think about what to do, and I decided to follow the footpath which is marked by orange marks (in present apparently less visible because diluted) and which is heading for some houses on the opposite side of the valley westwards the village. When I was in Lakki like in my trailhead for the first time, I tried to go along these marks but they disappeared at a certain moment (better – I lost it…), I returned and used descent through a quite steep ravine, therefore now, I told myself I had to be very heedful to catch at which place the marks branch from the road/track. And I succeeded, not so far behind the last house the diluted orange arrow on the ground pointed to the left between two fences and down quite steep slope. For about 4 meters farther an openable piece of fence blocked next progress. I opened it and went through but I wasn’t able to find the next marks then. So, I tried to go to the right and down, also along some animal's paths, as far as the spot from which next continuation was impossible. Then returned to the fence up and tried to go to the left but with the same result. Therefore, I chose the middle way and after not very nice descent crossing two fences I got on a poor footpath running to the bottom of a ravine. I think one can meet this ravine not turning beyond the last house following waymarks (like I did so) but going along the track further. It starts to descend to get at its lowest point just on the bottom of the ravine above mentioned. And here must be the beginning of the above-mentioned footpath (rather an animal’s path only) through this ravine. This possibility seems to me to be more comfortable than to descend the overgrown slope crossing fences, I must remember it for next using…. Nevertheless, back to the footpath throughout the ravine which I reached. For a second, I was unsure on which side I should go on but almost immediately I chose going to the left and it was the right choice. In a short time, I got at the place where one should get (in the case of the passable way through the ravine from Lakki), and during another short time, the branch to the right and up appeared (marked). Now I was on the well-known path described in the folder “From Lakki to Sougia” and only one difference was rather distinct – due to the spring season the path was very overgrown and when I finished this part and reached the shepherd's road running to Poria, my legs were scratchy, full of blood marks and scrabs. Walking along the road toward Poria was heavenly nice than struggling through prickly and scraping growth even though the road is constantly ascending. I found the place for sleeping not so far before (lower) the Poria saddle, in a gully near the spot where the gorge gets wider and two houses with some fences and pens are standing here.

3^rd day (FRI 16/05) Night was nice and calm, perhaps with an exception of horrible morning sounds which produced shepherds managing their flocks of sheep on slopes. I have never believed the human throat is able to emit such unbelievable sounds!! However, the morning was also cold, on the rain-cover of my backpack which I left out the tent a rime appeared. The altitude of this place was about 1200m. After breakfast and packing of the backpack, I set off along the unpaved dirty shepherd’s road being for about 2 hours in the saddle of Poria just beside of the warder’s house which is above slopes falling down into the side-gorge of Samaria. Here, I took a break preparing coffee, dried the inner side of the tent wet from the night and continued along the road up then. Just beside a circular shelter (considerably destroyed already) the E4 route branches from the road up to start an ascent. The ascent is quite steep at the beginning, the well-marked footpath is winding among stones but as soon as it crosses a shallow gully the ascent gets more moderate until it comes on the flat area with many suitable places for camping and with parts of walls of a former stony mitato. Here, one should follow the right side of the plain where the marked route is running. Next course of the way is a little bit difficult to describe, there are no unique or strange points which could be good for orientation, nevertheless, the footpath is still well marked and it is mostly running upwards. Just single what happened was worsened weather which followed its normal daily development – a clear morning, more and more clouds from about the noon returning into the clear sky close to the evening. The footpath got on its highest point somewhere under a saddle between the summit of Melindanou (2132m) and a little bit lower and rather flat nearby top (also over 2000m). Here, I left the marked path to get on the ridge and reached my first over-2000m and unnamed summit (the lower one), designated by only a low cairn. I continued from this top off the E4 along the flat ridge as far as to the summit of Melindanou on which the considerably higher cairn is standing. As it was normal during the course of weather, the sunshine suddenly appeared to illuminate panorama of mountains all around. I descended on the E4 route and next way is simply and quite easy, it descends across some flatter place (for example the plain of Plakoseli) to finish its descent on the last one – the plain of Pirou. This small plain, or rather a wide valley, is also the beginning of the whole big valley's system which continues down through the wide place called Petradhé (with a well in its lower part with water year round) and its narrower part called Potámos. The final part of this valley is a typical narrow gorge with high vertical sides and big rounded boulders on the floor of its upper half whereas through the lower half of the gorge the path with only big stones underfoot is running. This gorge is called Eligias. I found very good sleeping place on the above mentioned place of Petradhé. Night was calm except about 6 or 7 males of rock partridges which had their time of mating and they called, each from its own place, long time into the night. Their voice is not, indeed, a singing….

4^th day (SAT 17/05) Nevertheless, the whole night was quite calm (except these male birds) but also a little bit rainy. About midnight a fine rain came and lasted for about one and a half of hour. But morning was again like from prospectus of travel agencies – sharp sunshine, deep blue sky and windlessness. While I prepared breakfast the sun rose above massif of Páchnes (2453m) and as soon as the first sun rays touched my place, I dried inside of my tent. Also drops of night rain on the tent fly, which were freezed onto it (altitude of about 1700m), started melting. My next way was upward a gully to the ruins of former mitato called Klissidia because just beside it the E4 route is running. For a short time, I joined this route and next way as far as the flat place called Katsiveli along a well-built pavement was without any problems. In comparison with the year 2012, when I hiked on this route in opposite direction, there weren’t any snow fields beside or on the way now. At Katsiveli I repacked my backpack and put important things into a small day-sack for climbing Svourichti (2337m), whereas the big backpack I hid and left among stones. Continuing along E4 I got just beside the Katsiveli Refuge in the saddle above where the ascent to the summit starts. There is any path, only here and there smaller cairns. The ascent is quite easy, Loraine Wilson would characterize it in her book-guide like a way in “easy gradient”. It is better to keep yourself more to the right because the opposite slope falling down into the valley, through which E4 continues as far as the valley of Lívada, is much steeper and sometimes with rocky cliffs. Only two or three depressions must be gone round. The summit is flat, designated by the big cairn, and I consider the view from it to be perhaps the best from all Levka Ori summits. When I was ascending, I built my own cairns (which, of course, extend the time of the ascent), and therefore the descent was easier concerning both orientation and hiking throughout the terrain. The ascent and the descent lasted together for about 3 or 3 and a half of hours. I’m afraid, there was no (usable) water at Katsiveli but it didn't appear to be a big problem because later, for two or three hours of hiking, I should be in the saddle of Rousiés, at the beginning of the ascent upward to Páches, where the well with enough good water year round is. The way from Katsiveli toward Rousiés is well known and also well visible. It took me slightly over 2 hrs and only at one place a snowdrift blocked the way – this place must be passed by. I got on the saddle of Rousiés later afternoon but enough in time I can take water, prepare the place for spending night inside the stone shelter and also prepare my dinner. But only eating was in coming twilight.

5^th day (SUN 18/05) Morning was like usually – clear but also windy. After eating breakfast and packing I set out quite early. Climbing upward is not very difficult, the way is marked by cairns in good frequency and by new red-white marks. On slopes, I had to cross several snow fields but there were only remnants. The largest one was just under the saddle, maybe rather a short and flat ridge than the saddle, on which the last part of ascent starts. I left my backpack there and got on the summit only with camera. Already during the end of ascent to the saddle I could feel something falling and gently touching my face but because the sun was shining and any clouds were above me I passed it over. The wind was stronger and stronger, especially beside the summit’s cairn of Páchnes. I didn’t stay there too much and quickly returned. In that time, clouds came and the “something” what I felt on my face turned into very fine drizzling. Therefore I went into a waterproof jacket and trousers, put the backpack on shoulders and started descent in the lowest saddle between the Páchnes massif and the Trocharis (2410m) (the second highest peak of Levka Ori). At the bottom, there is a big cairn from which I started ascending opposite slope. I chose the way not directly up but a little bit sideward to the right as far as a ridge leading to the left up to the top. This top is very flat. It is a lower hill before final ascent to Trocharis. The sun appeared again for a short time but the wind got stronger and stronger. Next way from the top was descending on very flat terrain which looked like a wide street in a town. It finished by a row of rocks which fill all the saddle between this hill and Trocharis itself. It tried, from a distance, to find the best ways how to go round these rocks but when I came closer I decided to cross it on its tops which were broad enough and only with a few narrow vertical crevices over which I can jump. Final ascent on Trocharis was again a little bit sideward to the right and as soon as I got on the ridge leading to the summit the ascent there was easy. Of course, except horrible wind which changed almost into a gale, plus drizzling which got stronger changing into a fine rain. I reached the top of Trocharis and lie down behind a leeward which is here. And I can think about, what to do now. There were two possibilities only, the first to return and the second one to continue. I estimated both are approximately of the same length and also of the same difficulty and only one plus for return was the fact that continuing was into the unknown terrain whereas to return was along the known way. Therefore, I decided to continue because I would have like to explore new areas. But wind was so strong it can tumble me sometime and I must stay from time to time for a while to be leant for my trekking poles and in such way to be anchored against it. Nevertheless, I went step by step on as far as the slope upward to the next summit of Thodori Korfí (2320m). Now, the wind blown me into my back and helped me to rise. On the first summit which I reached (the higher one), there is only a low cairn but not so far from it I could see the next summit (also over 2300m), with much higher cairn. The way there was easy – rather flat area. The lookout from this second summit was limited by mist and fine rain but one can judge the view when weather is nice must be fantastic. However, a combination of very strong wind and fine rain forced me to start immediately the descent into the saddle between this hill and opposite mountain called Xerolimni (2288m) where I could be a little bit protected against it, as I hopped. Nevertheless, I did not head for directly this saddle but little bit lower trying to get on the bottom of wild and wide valley under me (the area of Chórafas Korfí). But the very bottom was so wild I decided to traverse on the heel of left slope, thus the slope of Xerolimni. The way was with very rough stones underfoot but always descending and really protected against the strong wind. In one moment I could see a road in front of me and deeply down, so it confirmed me I was on the right way. However, last part before the road seemed to be very difficult due to a deep swallow-hole with steep slopes around it. Therefore I decided to go a little bit to the right over a flat range and climb down into some smaller holes. It wasn’t very hard work and for a short time I reached the road. Victory!!! I survived!! Now, all will get easily!! I appeared on the road in its turning (a little bit lower the place called Ammoutsera) and down of its right side a large declining area was in sight through which the marked (red-white marks) track led. The wind was very strong again due to it was concentrated into the valley, and also fine rain didn’t stop yet. Fortunately, the wind blown from behind. As soon as I got on the road again, not so far from it an old mule-track branched to the right and down under the road (the place of Agnathopei). I was about to finish my track here because about 100m further there is a nice place with several ancient cypress trees where I hoped to find my camping place. And I really found some but not under these trees. I had to pitch my tent beside a rock to be hidden a little bit because still strong wind blown always at the more open place under trees. During pitching the tent and also during preparing and eating my dinner, the fine rain was always falling. I was so tired, I “hit the rack” immediately after dinner was ate up, and despite gusts of the wind into the tent, I fell into the deep sleep.

6^th day (MON 19/05) As every day, the morning was nice and sunny again. Even the wind turned down and nice and easier final part of my track was waiting for me. After all morning activities, including up drying of the tent (still very wet after the night rain), I set off along the old mule-track connection through the gorge Lagos. The footpath is running along well built pavement with supporting walls, often winding quite steep slope as far as the place with two names. On the older ANAVASI map one can meet the name of Sópata (but also Vigla at other sources) whereas on the new one there is the name of Ammoutsera which is, however, the same name like the name of an area higher along the road. I don’t know which the right one is but I suppose the name Ammoutsera is absolutely wrong. I asked somebody from the edition board of the publisher where the truth is and if two places not so far to each other can have the same name but until now nobody has answered me. Beside the footpath, ruins of rectangular stone house are staying in which one or two persons can find enough room for spending night. Lower the house several pens and fences are near a partly underground water tank of an old style, with vaulted roof (Kriaras sterna). There is a connection between the main road higher up, and this place along the dirty road. However, my next way got worse. Probably as a result of heavy rain or sudden thawing of snow, the path from this place was considerably devastated. This worse part took about one third of the next trace. Despite the bad surface of the path, the way itself is nice running under cypress trees in friendly gradient. On a certain place, I met several plants of orchid – Orchis quadripuncatata. After a while, cypress trees are replaced by pine trees and approximately somewhere there the track got better. It lasted for not so long time and I appeared on the lower end of the gorge called Gonia, and Anopoli plateau was in front of me. A new barn is built just beside the way and on the place where the path joins the road a new informative table is standing, with pictures of rare plant which one can meet in the gorge. I rested for a couple of minutes, took some photos and ate a müsli-stick and went on along the road down to the civilization (and thus, also to beer :-) ). On the place where this road joins another one I could see “nice” example how it is possible almost to destroy quite good road in short time. This more important road used to be, indeed, unsurfaced but with firm surface made of sand and gravel. I went along it for the last time at 2011 and it had the feature above mentioned still. How I was surprised when I could see that somebody caught an idea to cover this road by bitumen!! But due to the facts bitumen was laid up (probably) directly on the road without any previous adjustment of ground and, in addition, it was of low quality (probably), after only about 3 years (maximum) the road was with only poor remains of bitumen but with quite deep grooves beside them. Nevertheless, I got to the settlement of Kámbi for short time and took a rest refreshing in the local bakery. After refreshment, I set out on the road and headed for next small village – Agios Dimitrios in which the old connection between this settlements and village of Aradhéna starts (light blue marks and arrows to the left beside small church with a couple of graves). It is a considerable short-cut in comparison with walking along the road. To get on the road again took about a half an hour or rather less. I didn’t delay on the bridge across the Aradhéna Gorge and hurry up on the road to get early enough on my planned campsite at Sellouda, just above the beach of Agios Pavlos. But all was in different way I missed the right branch and finished as far as in the village of Agios Ioannis for almost 5km farther!! There was only one possibility how to get back at Sellouda and not to go along the road – to use an old connection between Agios Ioannis and the coast. This way runs between two stone walls for its considerable part and it is also with stones underfoot (and with red-white marks), so walking along it is not very nice. Nevertheless, I reached Sellouda enough time before twilights and pitched my tent in that way I could look at the sea in the morning when I wake up. Around on this place was low grass like prepared for a tennis match, air was warm and the wind stopped, so, what I could wish more!!!

7^th day (TUE 20/05) As normal, sunshine woke me up. However, I had to change a little bit a position of my tent shortly before dusk in previous day, by the sharp side against the wind because it started blow again. But fortunately, for only a short time of about tens or fifteen minutes. Therefore, I couldn’t have a look on the sea immediately in the morning when I popped out the tent but when I crept out I could enjoy all the view both on the sea and also on the mountain on the opposite side, and also on the bright blue sky above me and goats passing around to check what I'm doing….. To get on the coastal branch of the E4 route takes much more than one hour, the footpath down is a little bit tiring but as soon as one gets under pine trees all is much nicer you are walking in shade not so high above sea level (I guess about 50 or 80 meters as maximum) and what is important – with vision of closeness of the sea in which you can refresh and wash. I did all of it under dunes in the mouth of the Eligias Gorge. The sea was indeed wavy and its temperature was far from its very friendly state during the summer but I enjoyed it for more than one hour to continue toward Agia Roumeli. This village was my terminal place. I’m afraid, my favourite place for my tent was taken but I found another one nice enough which was even with two "rooms" – I had my own sleeping room (where my tent was staying) and adjacent kitchen/dinner room where I prepared food and ate it then.

8^th – 10^th days (WED 21/05 – FRI 23/08) Mine stay in Agia Roumeli ran in calm and piece, I could sleep or only lounge so long how I wished and anything pushed me into any activity which wasn’t necessary for surviving. I rested on the coast taking sunbath, a little bit swimming (but not too much, water about 20°C degrees is almost off my limits), visited the Tarra restaurant to talk with my friends – Andreas and his brother Sifis who are owners of this, shortly - I enjoyed my leisure time. In the morning of my last day in Agia Roumeli Sifis offered me to take a part in fishing, so we set out on a boat to pick up fishnet which was not so far from the shore. As soon as we finished it I had a breakfast and then I started my return home. Packing the tent and next accessories took me a time, and around noon I hove anchor and headed along E4 eastward for Agios Pavlos, Marmara and a cap of Mournés near Loutro where I spent night on my favourite place beyond an ancient sstonewall beside a garden of a local man.

11^th day (SAT 24/05) Clear and sunny morning pushed me out the tent quite early. After breakfast I could pack my tent immediately without necessity of drying it (the night was warm). Then I walked away to a small quay where I washed and swam a little bit and refreshed continued to Loutro to do some shopping. I love the way from the shop to the beginning of E4 behind and up the houses because it is so a very narrow lane winding among houses that one doesn’t know if is still on the public way or if he is on a terrace of a house already. Next footpath is well apparent running not so high above sea level. I stopped in a shallow bay enjoying enough warm water (finally!!) and picking up nice pebbles, to go on after about two hours later. The footpath from this point climbed a little bit on a flat range with a chapel, to climb down again as far as on the sea level on the Glika Nero beach. To cross this beach in boots is quite hard work, a high layer of pebbles slides under your steps, and even continuation of the way isn’t nice because it runs among and over huge boulders and rocks fallen down and totally destroyed formerly good and well built track. The way is ascending, sometimes quite steep and on the full sunshine what could be exhausting. Last part of the way is carved in rocks and behind this section there is only a good pavement winding shortly on the slope and suddenly, one is on the main road between Sfakia and Anopoli. Now, only for about 1km down along it and you are on the bridge passing a mouth of the Ilingias gorge. Here, I turned into the gorge to ascend for about 300m as far as a small cypress tree grove where mine another favourite sleeping place is. This sleeping place is bordered by stones – we made it last year, but as I had enough time (it was only a mid afternoon and there was still several hours to the dusk) I improved this bordering and made up also near surroundings, removed died and dried branches of trees and listened to evening silence broken only voices of birds (especially rock partridges) and goats.

12^th day (SUN 25/05) I woke up quite early to have enough time for preparing breakfast, packing all things, getting in Sfakia, shortly swimming for the last time on local beach, taking fresh water shower and wash myself, buying beer and then waiting for the bus at 11 o’clock a.m. to Chania. I caught the bus, got in Chania where I left my backpack in the luggage room and I had a half of day for walking around city, buying some gifts, having frappé and gyros and beer and others, and in the evening I picked up my luggage, took the bus toward the airport and left there for spending my last night in its hall.

13^th day (MON 26/05) Night wasn’t too nice, as usually, I didn’t sleep, but because departure of my flight was early morning, I didn’t have to spend there more time. Also change in Athens was OK and therefore the plane landed in Prague on time, maybe even a little bit earlier than scheduled, I could just before the noon unlock door of my flat.

So, my next Cretan adventure was over and I could wait for about slightly more than three and a half of month for next one.