Crete Island - Levka Ori (White Mountanis)

PRAGUE – ATHENS – CHANIA – IMBROS – SFAKIANO GORGE – KALI LAKKOI – MOURI – KAVIS (TIMIOS STAVROS) – ANOPOLI – KROUSIA (with a trip to DRAKOULAKI cave and back) – AGIOS IOANNIS (with a trip to PAPAKEFÁLA and back) – SELLOUDA – ARADHÉNA GORGE – MARMARA – AGIOS PAVLOS – AGIA ROUMELI (with a trip to AGIA PARASKEVI and back) – DOMATA – TRIPITI – AGIOS ANTONIOS – SOUGIA – LISSOS – GHIALISKARI (with a trip to ANIDRI and back) – PALAIOCHORA – CHANIA – ATHENS – PRAGUE

This year (2021), I might, finally!!, set off on my next holiday in Crete! After a pause of one and half years!! Although my standard routine was two visits a year until the time before the covid pandemic. Even though some restrictions persisted, travelling was quite easy at that time. There were just two obligate conditions for it – a certificate of anti-covid vaccination, and filling in PLF (Passenger Locator Form). As I got two dozen vaccines already, the first condition was easy to fulfil. As well, filling the form was not very difficult, except for one item, which was the place of the first destination. As we were (my frequent mate who used to go with me, set off as well) going to overnight wherever at a suitable place for a tent, including the Neo Chora beach in Chania for the first night, we didn't know what to do, what to fill in. The place of the first accommodation is required, including its address (street) and postcode, and that was a problem – we didn't know it. However, we tried to use a campsite, especially the one in Palaiochora (which could serve as our base camp – if necessary to explain why this site). When I looked at the Google Map there was information this campsite is on/near a Pebble Beach, so we used it as its street location – and it came off. The form looked OK then, QR-codes appeared in our emails soon so, we could indeed set off. Necessary to say – the PLF almost nobody wanted to look at – just in Prague when we checked in at the airport and then in Athens when changing the flight. And anywhere they use a scanner of QR-code, it looks like all these papers and administrations are just a portion of good food for administrative, for red tapes only.

As I left for Crete 09-21 with a return on 10-10, it was quite a long holiday. Only at the beginning (09-22+23/09) of our holiday, the weather was not very good – sometimes drizzling which the strong wind drifted from somewhere, and even a fine rain for almost one hour, however, it seems these were just local conditions, because later, for a couple of days in Anopoli tavern, they said us the weather around Anopoli was nice during that days, without neither strong wind nor any drops. And for the whole remaining time of holiday, we didn't meet any unfavourable weather (except two-three a little bit windy days).

So, why Sfakiano, which was our first destination. I hiked through it from Trikoukia to Sfakia in 2017 for the first time. I used (in that year) the kalderimi at its lower end to leave the gorge, but if I tried to get to 12 Apostoles (a church in Sfakia), it was (almost) not possible - across the dirt local road there is a barn with fences around and inside there were two big barking dogs, which was why it wasn't possible to get through in good health conditions. Of course, I could try to go around these fences, but it didn't seem to me to be attractive enough, and I got to Sfakia along the main road then. For two years later, in 2019, I decided to get into the Sfakiano from Imbros using another way – first along the main road for about 1,2 km and then to branch to the right in a sharp turning of the road and upward a ravine (or a small valley) then as far as a flat ridgetop. From this point, I descended following the local dirt road (which somebody can rate as a boring one), to reach the gorge bed of the Sfakiano side gorge). However, I consider this road to be quite interesting because it is running predominantly in the shadow of trees, and it is also a good example of how well people were able to build roads on very steep slopes. The road is winding the slope in many turnings and long loops and continues on the opposite slope. When it ends, it is necessary to find not very well apparent goat's path to get on the (Sfakiano) gorge bed near the ruins of a mitato. This path is running obliquely to the right.  Nevertheless, why I decided for this way at that time (2019): according to the Google Earth map, it should be a small old mitato (maybe in ruins) under the end of the dirt road from the Skarfidhakia spring, and it crossed my mind if it is possible to get from other ruins of a large mitato higher the chapel in Sfakiano (Agios Pavlos) across two gorges and reach this end of the "Skarfídhakia road" above mentioned. However, as I could see from the ruins at that time, both gorges are very deep and their slopes too steep for such an adrenaline adventure for a senior. :-) Thus, for this year (2021), I decided to examine the old kalderimi from the Agios Pavlos chapel in Sfakiano upward to the Kali Lakkoi former summer village and try to join an ancient connection between plains of Niátos and Anopoli. And my companion was for it as well.

So, we landed on 09-21 shortly before midnight, succeeded to catch the last bus toward the city (Chania) and for about 30 mins we were at the main bus station. And now, what to do. Our normal activity would be to buy the first gyros and the first can of Mythos, which is good Greek beer and eat it up on a bench in a park of the 1899 Square. However, we felt full, so we bought beer only and left toward the Neo Chóra beach for our first Cretan overnight. The next day (09-22), we did necessary shopping (a gas cartridge for our gas stove, bread and some other smallness) and took the 1400 bus toward Sfakia to start our trek. We came to Imbros about one hour later (note: the bus stop is handy, just beside a tavern, so one needs only about three steps and can get beer, coffee or other importance before the start). After a short refreshment, we set off. First, along the main road (about 1.3km), then branched right on a track through a ravine and via ascent/descent/ascent/descent we got to Agios Pavlos for overnight. We came there in almost twilight, and when pitched the tent, the dark came already, so we prepared dinner darklings. The water trough under the old mitato was full, but the worse was the wind which got stronger. The next day (09-23) we set off up to reach the old kalderimi to start the ascent. It is the well-built and well-marked old connection through the forest (stonemans, coloured spots), but as soon as the kalderimi gets among sparse trees and at open terrain, the path almost disappears. As well, it was an area where the rain came with rather strong wind and conditions got much worse. Despite it, we reached the local road and followed it to the left (toward its end). Around us, there were many remains of old buildings but some new ones as well. Somewhere near a new small chapel, an unmarked path should start. It should join the trek running between Niáto/Trikoukia and Anopoli. (I call this route for myself as The Loraine' trail because I met her - the best authoress of the book guide to mountains of Crete - for the first time just here, and in addition, she marked this route by extremely small red dots in the past which are occasionally apparent until now). But we couldn't find the way, and just after using a mobile phone map application, we got onto the abandoned fields above Kali Lakkoi to join The Loraine' trail. It could be said, there is no one "main" visible path among trees here, but several goat's paths are running here that join and diverge to each other. However, we reached The Loraine' trail and via Skarfídhakia spring came near the Feeno kai Yannous work-station, where branched toward Mouri, the next former village. The next way (for me the new one), which we tried to pass through, was the path from Mouri into the Kavis gorge, actually to the Timios Stavros chapel into it. Kavis is the name for the upper part, whereas Ilingias is the name for the lower part of the same gorge. This path starts at the second sharp turning of the dirt road to the right, and it is even rather well-marked (darker red spots) at its beginning. But when the trek crosses the ravine bed, we lost marks and the path, of course, as well. I think the problem could be, the bed at this part of the ravine has been destroyed (by the water of heavy rain), and about 2.5-3m high step was created which caused any hints of a path disappeared. Therefore we descended under this step (rather dangerous, especially with heavy backpacks on shoulders) on the gorge bed and got into the Kavis through this (not a very pleasant way). But the next way on the Kavis bed was clear, and comparing the trek just passed almost comfortable – about 200m to the right, and we were beside the Timios Stavros chapel where overnighted then. The chapel is sunk lower than the surrounding terrain. It has a main "sacred" part, into which one can reach downstairs (about five steps), and an outer roofed part with two entrances from which one is free, whereas the second one can be closed by a sliding door. In the outer room, which is full of chairs and other things, one can overnight as well, but we didn't do it and pitched our tent outside because, at that time, it was the time of wasps and nobody wants to be woken by these "lovely" insects. There is also a water source (in a cave called Kallerghi on the Google Map, but in a schedule on high, near the upper end of the ascending kalderimi, there is a different name of the cave inscribed). To get from the chapel up is not complicated - well-built and as it seems, also well-tramped kalderimi is running up just behind the chapel. The way to Anopoli along the old connection (not by the dirt road) is only partly well-visible or well-marked, but at some places, one must either use the map application or guess which way to go only. Along this old connection, we reached Anopoli, and what was the most important – the tavern (having a regale here). For overnight, we picked out a picnic place about 2km from Anopoli, just above the rear part of the Aradhena gorge. This place has one, but a very displeasing feature: all things – tables, bends and the ground as well, is flashing by resin of pines and if one set on a bend, or lay something on the table, all can be polluted by the resin. However, we succeeded to find a place without resin under about four cypress trees that don't weep resin. The next day (09-24) the third "unknown" (for us) trek expected us - the way (rather well-marked by green-white marks) from the picnic place above the Aradhena gorge toward Krousia (with a long detour to the Drakoulaki cave and back – hard work about 5km altogether). This cave is not very attractive, especially in SEP or OCT, when the small pond inside is dry. The whole trek is well-marked (green-white marks and cairns) and always ascending under trees. Near Krousia, we hid backpacks and went to the cave. The path started near wells (there are three wells with rather poor water), and almost whole the way is easy to follow except about two short parts where the right way must be searched a little bit. After return, we found a good place for an overnight in a shallow pit under pines. In the morning (09-25), we continued down to Agios Ioannis through a long valley/gorge. This trek is distinguished by many limekilns (14pcs!!). As well this path is easy to follow (many stonemans and several white marks at its beginning, and also the fact it is not enough possible to leave the gorge). In Agios Ioannis, we had a small refreshment in Alonia tavern and then left backpacks here to do a short trip to Papakafála outlook and back. After returning had lunch and set off to Sellouda for overnight. Our next steps (next day 09-26) led to the Aradhéna gorge by side access into it. This way is a good path among low bushes, but later the good path worsens mainly due to many even big pines falling across the way. To go through Aradhéna is not very difficult, but several rockfalls can be a little bit complicated to get over. At the last one, a freshwater spring can be found even in the hottest months of the year. However, not so far under this last rockfall, we got to the sea (this place is called Marmara, and there is also an iconic tavern on a cliff). Our next work was hiking along the E4 route toward the Agios Pavlos beach, our next campsite. A horrible way indeed contouring the slope, but just after two hours, the first shadow under an olive tree comes. Then a part under pines and we were on the beach. We overnighted her. (09-27) Toward Agia Roumeli, it is about 30mins, and we were at the informal campsite. Here we stayed for about five days (09-28 - 10-02) of the rest. After this pleasant stay here, we went on (10-03), still keeping the coastal E4, toward the Domata beach near which overnighted under pines. The next stage (10-04) of our trek was across the mouth of the Tripiti gorge to the church of Agios Antonios on the coast for spending the next night. Nothing important happened. I hiked along this part many times, maybe almost ten times, and I think anything can surprise me here.  Nevertheless, there were two new things yet - a new beginning of the ascent from the Tripiti gorge upward ruins of the Pikilassos fortress, and the fact, there was water in the trough of the Voukelas spring - that was surprising because in SEP or OCT there is usually no water inside. We left (10-05) Agios Antonios using the new (marked, red spots) coastal trek joyning E4 in the Kerathidis gorge. Along it, we reached Sougia (night), then (10-06) Lissos (night) and (10-07), finally, the Ghialiskari beach (for two nights with a detour to Anidri village and back (10-08). The last trek on the following day (10-09) on the southern coast was an obnoxious part along the dirt and dusty road toward Palaiochora. In Palaiochora, we took a bus toward Chania, spent here whole afternoon, and in the evening left by bus to the airport. Here we overnighted and in the morning (10-10) boarded a plane to land in Prague (with change in Athens) shortly before noon. And it was the end of my Cretan holiday.

My GPS has counted up the whole distance of walking as almost 200 km – for a senior over 70 hard work, I think. :-) Nevertheless, I don't believe this number is the right one, so I checked it using a map application to arrange this whole trek here, and the map application shows much less km – only about 125. But as well, this length, often in not very easy terrain underfoot, is as well rather good for a senior with a heavy backpack on his shoulder, what do you mean?

At the time of the first earthquake in Crete (at the beginning of OCT) we were just in the Aradhena gorge, but (fortunately) the earthquake was just on the northern coast, and anybody on the southern coast didn't feel anything. If the earth would shiver around the gorge, some big stones and boulders, or even rocks could loosen, and THIS could be for us very dangerous.