Crete Island - Levka Ori (White Mountanis)

IRAKLIO-CHANIA-KOLYMBARI-RODOPOU-KOLYMBARI-CHANIA-RETHYMNO-VRISSES-IRAKLIO

For this year (2022), I decided to visit Crete in early spring again (as in 2015) to see many spring flowers. The time should be early March. However, as I had read many times before about the area of Ghious Kámbos (southwards Rethymno) which should be such “a promised land” for those who wish to meet orchids and one certain species of tulips, therefore, I changed my routine (to be somewhere in the area of Levka Ori and its surrounding) and created an itinerary including both the range of orchids and the Rodopou peninsula which I had never visited before, as well.

When I created the itinerary, the main problem was with feeding, or – better – with having and carrying food in backpacks. For Ghious Kámbos, it is not clear which shops, taverns, and restaurants, in one-word sources of food and water, are open off-season, and to bear with whole-day food for many days is not what one would like to do with pleasure. That is why in the itinerary, the first was a trek through the whole stretch of the peninsula with food for about three or four days as the maximum, and for the next part of our holiday, we decided to risk a little hoping all (or, at least, most) taverns and shops in villages in surrounding of Ghious Kámbos, Potamos Dam and Rethymno (the trek was arranged between these points) which can be seen in Google Earth, and Mapy.cz applications, would be open, and that would mean not to have to carry too much food in backpacks. Nevertheless, as we say “the man means but the God changes” – weather conditions were against us.

So, roughly it could be said, the first part worked out all right. Our plane landed in Iraklio (= Herakleion) on time according to the timetable, a city bus in front of the airport hall came soon, a journey to the main square – Plateia Eleftherios – took not a too long time and finally, we found in advance booked hotel easy. On the next day, the shift to the main bus station was easy and fast, a bus to Chania left as we expected and early afternoon we were in Chania. Here the main task was buying a cartridge for a gas stove and taking the bus toward Kolymbari which we considered to be our trailhead. Before we set off for our holiday, I had found the way up as far as the Rodopos village and after going through it we easily found a small church, or maybe rather chapel (Agia Panagia) under an overhanging rock with a terrace around where we spent our first outdoor night. The weather was kindly – not too hot, no strong wind, no rain. The next stage should be almost as far as the very north point of the peninsula, and we indeed got to a good overnight place about 3km far from the peninsula’s end. Along the whole journey, we walk comfortably by the local dirt road not too steep up, not too steep down and the temperatures were just good for walking. Small problems came on the next day – we headed for the endpoint light, with small day-sacks only but shortly beyond a meadow area where we stayed overnight, heavy rain caught us. But fortunately, it lasted for about 10 or 15mins only, and in addition not so far in front of us there was a small house without doors and windows though but with a good roof which was the most important. We went through the remains of rain inside. After an inspection of the surrounding, we returned, took (hidden) backpacks and following the same road by which we got here walked back as far as a crossroad. Here we turned right to reach a beautiful valley with a church area and many fields. In a building of this large church area (on its terrace), we overnighted again. Even though a short shower came in the night, the whole next day was nice. Continuing by the road, we reached another small church almost on the coast, and after short rest here, we took a footpath (rather well-marked and well-tramped) traversing in places precipitous western slopes of the main peninsula’s ridge. The footpath reaches a local dirt road by which we got to an abandoned and disused football pitch (!!!) about one km from the village. This place (the building with former dressing rooms and toilets) was our last one for overnight on the peninsula.

On the fifth day (excluding the day of our arrival), we got back to Kolymbari but when we had a coffee break waiting for a bus (according to the itinerary, we should return to Chania, overnight here on the beach, on the following day travel to Rethymno and via Spíli reach the Ghious Kámbos area), very heavy rain came and as the mobile phone application showed, it should be the beginning of the time of bad weather, we decided to change our plans, and continue as far as Rethymno (thus, without any stop for overnight in Chania). Heaving the coffee and looking at the heavy rain, we booked accommodation in Rethymno for 2 days. Therefore, as soon as we arrived in Chania we went on toward Rethymno immediately. Because the weather forecast didn’t promise improvement (temperatures felt and we could see the snow line on mountain slopes declined), we arranged another trek – to try to get on the southern coast to Sfakia and hiked here in its surrounding. The area of Ghious Kámbos is at an altitude of about 750-800m and as we could see, some snow layers threaten to be here. We didn’t have the proper snow equipment and hoped the southern coast could be a little bit warmer for spending the week here. It seemed to be a good idea.

So, after two nights in Rethymno, we set out toward the bus station (in drizzling!!) to buy tickets for Vrisses, a large village where there should be another bus line for Sfakia. However, when I was buying tickets and asked if there is a line from Chania to Sfakia in Vrisses, the lady at the cash desk told me, it is not sure, if the bus toward the south would work. Because of the very bad weather, it could be cancelled. Therefore, we booked (just to be sure) accommodation in Vrisses for the case we should stop here, and it revealed itself to be a wise decision, the bus from Chania toward Sfakia was indeed cancelled as the lady at the cash desk in Rethymno told me!! The route southwards passes the plain of Askifou (at about 720m) and they said to us, that the bus was cancelled because of the snow here. Thus, we had to spend the next night here, in Vrisses and decided to change completely our holiday. On the next day, we departed to Iraklio for having one week's stay here. As well in Iraklio, the weather was unpleasant, often fine rain, sometimes rather strong wind, temperatures low (even for wearing a light feather jacket and a cap!! temperatures at home, in Central Europe, were even higher in the same time!!) and just on the last day before our departure home, the sun appeared.

Now, how the days ran:

THU 03/03 – We took off from Prague, changed in Athens and landed in Iraklio on time (at about 1700). After getting backpacks, we set out to a bus stop in front of the airport hall to catch some line into the city centre. As I remembered, it should be bus No. 1 but soon came No. 6 which went to the main square (Eleftherios Square, Πλατεια Ελεφθεριοσ) as well – we needed to get there. Using a mobile phone application, we found the booked hotel (El Greco) easy. The hotel was almost empty. Our room was small, only a double-bed and a small table with one chair + a small bathroom with a toilet. The accommodation was of the "bed and breakfast" type, and its off-season price was € 19 per person and night. In the evening, we set out for dinner. According to a map, some taverns should be not so far from the hotel but they didn't work and we had to walk around the hotel to find a rather good tavern with heating (the temperature was not very pleasant).

FRI 04/03 – Breakfast was so-called the continental one, neither worse nor very good. We packed our backpacks soon and left for the main bus station to shift to Chania. One line left shortly before we came, so we had to wait for about one hour for the next service. To Chania, we arrived shortly before noon. The first task was to buy a cartridge for a gas stove. In the SYNKA supermarket, there were many types and a new one – with a screw valve and of a small size – was available. The bus to Kolymbari, our trailhead, left soon and in the early afternoon we got out just in front of another SYNKA supermarket, in Kolymbari. After a short walk along the street just in front of the supermarket, we turned right (the large church of Agia Marina next to the street) and continued straight ahead to cross another big road. The following part was through an area with older family houses separated by small lanes and spreading on a precipitous slope. Even though we lost once, we reached a small triangular square with a flower bed in the middle, where the road upward, into the hills, starts. Its concrete surface changed into dirt one soon and the slope levelled out. Beside the road, there were olive orchards only. The next landmark for us was a bitumen road into which the dirt road enters. The bitumen road is heading for the village of Astrátigos (to the right), however, we turned left and after less than one hundred meters turned right on a lesser road which passes by the village. Following this road, we got down to the large village of Rodopos. According to maps, in the village, there should be at least a café near the main square but all, including a small shop, were closed. Next to the main street, there are two big churches in the village: the first one is Agios Georgios and the second one is Agios Antonios. We hoped to supply water in the village but when all was closed... According to the itinerary, we should find after less than one km from the second big church another but smaller one shortly before a sharp road turning in the opposite direction. And we found it: there is a concrete approach on the right side to a gate, behind which a footpath/steps as far as the second gate follow ascending toward the church. The second gate is for access to the terrace around the church (Agia Panagia). The church is partly under an overhanging rock. The rock was very moist, water was dripping everywhere even inside the church (into a plastic bucket). But on the other hand, the water in the bucket was clear and we could use it for cooking dinner. The terrace (enclosed by a low wall) was not a very large, our two-person tent hardly fitted into it, and the terrace was overgrown by lush grass and other plants (including Iris tuberosa, a species of a sward flag, and Cyclamen graecum subsp. graecum, a species of a sowbread). Nevertheless, the night (the first one outdoor) was calm despite a fine and short shower.

SAT 05/03 – The morning was nice, sunny and rather warm. During breakfast, the tent dried up and we had to set off. However, just until taking a photo of an Iris, concretely Iris tuberosa which I had never seen before. Toward the very tip of the peninsula, we followed the dirt local road which was always slightly ascending. Next to the road, there were many vineyards which mostly don't exceed one hectare. As we could see, just now there was a time of a vine pruning. However, from a certain altitude, vineyards disappeared and many rocks were on both sides. We could see some hints lower already, but at the higher altitude, there were many even large pools on the road. Some intensive rains might be here not long ago. In many places, there were often large green lush meadows next to the road with grazing sheep. In one such place, we did a stop, next to a small house with a garden in the front where some vegetables, like carrots, but also broad beans (maybe for feeding animals?) were grown. When the road levelled out, a crossroad with a signboard appeared. To the left, it is toward the churches of Agios Ioannis Ghionas and Agios Pavlos, whereas straight ahead the road runs as far as the Sanctuary of Diktynna Menias. The right direction for us was straight ahead, at least for that time. In these green meadows, there were often different water tanks often with pipes that distributed water but only a couple of them looked useful for taking water for drinking/cooking however just when using a water filter, I guess. When the road passes its highest point and started going down we could see below the large meadow with clusters of trees and an object which should be (according to the map) the church (or a chapel). We intended to overnight here but when got more closely we learnt it is rather a shepherd's shelter with a small chapel built-in it, and what was still worse, a dog was barking here. Not so far in front of the shelter, the road to Diktynna branched right and down but the way to the peninsula's tip runs straight. Because the day declined we found a good place for our tent on the meadow and pitched it immediately. Just before the dark came, we prepared dinner and with pleasure hit the rack.

SUN 06/03 – On this day a good portion of hiking was waiting for us again. After breakfast, we packed backpacks and hid them under dense short trees to set out light to the end of the peninsula. The day was partly sunny and the road slightly ascended at first. However, soon it levelled out but we could see dark clouds approaching from the west. It didn't take a too long time and rather heavy rain came. We wore waterproof jackets and shoes but not waterproof trousers which were wet through immediately. However, not so far in front of us, there was a small house, indeed without windows and doors but, how it showed itself, with a good roof. The remainder of the rain we went through here. As soon as the rain stopped, the thick mist was around but the sun tried to break through and for not so long time, it succeeded. So we could survey the remains of an observatory which was built by Germans in 2ww, and some next objects, all in ruins. After returning to our backpacks, we didn't take a rest and set off back in the same way by which we got here. In the house with the front garden, we did a short break again to take water and went on as far as turning toward two churches (to the right). Not so far from this crossroad, on the left, there was a signpost pointing to a footpath running among rocks and big stones at first, to get over/through a rocky crest and descent into the valley. We didn't take it due to having lighter boots only. We didn't know how stony or rocky underfoot the (very steep) descending part could be, thus we continued by the road. It makes long loops from which we could look at the whole valley. As soon as we got down, there was to the right and not so far from the road a group of small buildings among trees. This was Agios Ioannis Ghionas, our destination hoping somewhere here we can find a place for overnight. The area is made of a newer small church, the older building (maybe formerly a church?), a place which looks like a small amphitheatre (probably for an outdoor religious celebration), a large area with long benches and tables for at least tens persons, a fenced olive orchard and a low, perhaps a technical building with covered terraces. Nobody was around and we decided to occupy one of the terraces for overnighting here. The place was rather luxurious for us, on one side of the terrace, there were toilets and a sink with running water, in the middle there was a table with chairs, and also enough place for pitching the tent. 

MON 07/03 – The morning was nice again, despite the fact a short shower came in the night. We set off by the road in the middle of the valley. Many fields next to the road, on its right (western) side, were covered by water, they looked like ponds. To the end, the road slightly ascends for the first time, to descend as far as the other church – Agios Pavlos. We noted the beginning of a (marked) footpath leaving in the sharp bend of the road which is traversing western in places precipitous slopes and is ascending as far as a local road running toward the village of Rodopos. The whole area with the church is fenced. In the fact, there are two buildings. The older one was under reconstruction whereas the second one seems to be in use until now. From the church area, it is not far to the coast but due to the cold wind, we didn't go there. After a short rest, we returned up at the beginning of the footpath and headed along this way. It is a good path, well-tramped and well-marked usually by red marks but additionally also by low cairns. The footpath meets the local dirt road at about 380m. From this point, the road runs shortly up to descend then as far as the village. About one kilometre in front of the village, there is an unbelievable football pitch!! It seemed to be utterly abandoned and a building with dressing and other rooms (including toilets and bathrooms) was accessible. So, we turned to it and decided to spend the on-coming night here. We chose the least dirty room and made it tidy. However, we didn't have enough water and before domestication, we set off into the village to find water (backpacks were hidden in a wooden chest inside the room). Passing by many places with valves for water distribution, we didn't succeed in finding accessible water here but we found a water tap near the church of Agios Georgios (even with an open WC!!) in the village. And then we discovered another water tap (at about knee height) on the square, just next to the street. After returning we prepare dinner and pitched the tent inside the tidy rooms. 

TUE 08/03 – The night was calm, the morning nice and going down into the village didn't take a long time. For return toward Kolymbari, we used at first the same way by which we came here four days ago, but later (below the village of Astrátigos) we took another way – a small bitumen road as far as a margin of Aspra Nerá, a settlement of several houses only, and around it to try getting on a track among olive orchards. In this way, we joined the same way by which we went on the first day of the trek again and descended toward Kolymbari. The bus from Kolymbari was horribly crowded, full of children from schools. In the course of a journey, the next heavy rain came. In Chania, we took the first bus toward Rethymno. Here, a very unpleasure weather was waiting for us – grey sky, cold wind and as though drizzling should come. Founding the hotel (Steris) was not very easy but succeeded in the end. It is almost on the seaside street. The off-season prize was rather low – about € 15.70 per person and day, although its facility was much better than in the room in Iraklio (with a higher price). Well equipped kitchen part, much larger room, larger bathroom+WC, and a balcony…however, without breakfast. We spent here two nights doing walks and having dinner in a gyros tavern not so far from the hotel. Sometimes the sun appeared but stronger cold wind worsened feelings.  

WED 09/03 – The stay in Rethymno. Walking to the close beach, around a harbour, into the centre, also around the big fortress and as well visited a large park which is a botanical garden as well.

THU 10/03 – Our stay in Rethymno was at its end, and we left to the main bus station (in drizzling!!) to buy tickets for shifting on the southern coast, as we changed our plans. The forecast still predicted low temperatures, precipitation and the possibility of snow higher up, and we supposed, conditions in the south could be a little bit better at least. So, we decided to get to Sfakia which meant buying tickets for Vrisses which is a transition point for the journey between Rethymno and Sfakia. However, when I bought tickets, asking if there is a line from Chania to Sfakia in Vrisses, the lady at the cash desk told me it is not sure the bus would work due to the very bad weather. With such bad information, we try to have a look at the possibility to book accommodation in Vrisses for a case when the bus would be really cancelled. And in Vrisses, it showed itself how wise was booking accommodation here (Village Vibes) – the bus indeed didn’t go!! So, we had (theoretically) a roof over our heads (which was very important for constant fine rain) but the problem was to find this object. Using the map application on a mobile phone, we might be at the right place but around there were not any hints of the accommodation offered!! At the end of a line (which should be the place of accommodation), there was only a quite big two-storeyed house of which one half was in ruins – with almost no roof and without windows and doors, whereas the second half, as it seemed, was partly renewed only. But nowhere any sign of accommodation, any signboard, nothing. And drizzling without end. I decided to ask a question in a near supermarket, and here, a very kind and willing girl behind the cash desk helped us. She via a long phone call found out we were right at the end of the lane (in front of the half-ruined house), and told us to go on a terrace and enter into one door with a key in the lock. So, when we repeated our journey in drizzling and came to the terrace at the end of the lane, there really was one door with the key, and inside, there was a small room with double-bad, a poor kitchen, a small table and a very “economic” (minimalistic) bathroom with toilet, but what was the most important – in the middle of the room, there was a small electric and turn-on heater. The price (€ 16.25 per person/day) was rather high regarding poor furniture and very difficult founding it and especially in a comparison with prices for the much better-furnished room of the hotel Steris almost on the beach in Rethymno (€ 15.70). For one night quite sufficient but for a longer stay a little bit poor. For dinner, we left to a tavern next to the river (a meal of average quality), and during eating, we agreed on the way how to spend the remaining part of our holiday, which was resulting in booking accommodation in Iraklio for 6 nights, having a stay here then.

FRI 11/03 – The morning was sunny but cold (again). We could see how low the snow line felt, which confirmed us we did a good decision to avoid hiking somewhere higher up and did an inspection of the closest surroundings of the house. Going by a morning bus, we came to Iraklio about noon, and following a waterfront street along the port area (cold wind, sometimes drizzling) we suddenly stayed in front of a certain family house in which our beds should be (Vaso’s Apartment). On the booking.com website, there was written, that the latchkey is inside a small grey-black box next to the door and a password (or a code) for opening the box was given in the instruction as well. The box really was there but how to get inside for the key? In the end, after a long “research” we found out, that a small black part is a cover (moving up and down) sheltering a metal cylinder made of 4 parts on which the code (from the booking.com instructions) can be set. So, we did it, the box opened and the key was inside. Great victory!! And much greater victory was waiting for us inside: an excellently furnished flat with a roomy corridor with enters into other rooms: two sleeping rooms, a very large bathroom with toilet, and a very large living room with an excellent kitchen part, a dining table and an additional bed!! Wi-Fi net in the whole flat. For heating (very important for such cold days!!), there were air-conditioning appliances in each room above the window which can warm or cool. In two words – “fetch, fetch!!” And brilliant was the price, as well – € 13.50 per person/day, what more to wish!! Only two small problems we had to solve. The first one was how to open wi-fi. There was a paper with login and password pinned on a board at the end of the corridor, but it didn’t work. How we found, the mistake was one letter (“k”) which was written like a small one but if it was set as a capital letter (thus “K”), wi-fi suddenly ran. And the second problem – there was instruction on which way to turn on hot water, but instructions were written a little bit unclearly. There was written several times about a boiler which wasn’t anywhere though, but the solution was to switch on the right circuit breaker in the switchboard. Indeed, we had to do it using the method “attempt/fault” because all the circuit breakers were described just in Greek, however, we succeeded in the end, and days of nothing doing could start.

SAT 12 – WED 16/03 – The stay in Iraklio. We did walks to the city-centre, to the harbour, passed the whole length of a very long mole protecting the harbour, as well to try out how long time takes to shift from our place to the airport, and also a long walk as far as beaches eastward the airport (on the last day before return, it was sunny but with the cold wind). We bought food in supermarkets and prepared meals “at home” but as well had dishes or beer+coffee combination in taverns.

THU 17/03 – The day of return. We left the flat early morning as our flight had a boarding time shortly before 6 PM. We get to the airport in time to pack backpacks for transit, the time in Athens (change) was not too long and our plane landed at the Prague airport on time. To collect backpacks and get into my flat didn’t take more than two hours. We left our luggage here and walked out to a restaurant for later lunch which was a nice conclusion to our holiday.