Crete Island - Levka Ori (White Mountanis)

Chania-Lakki-Poria-E4-Petradhé-Katsiveli-Modaki-Katsiveli-Rousiés-Angathopoi-Lagou-Anopoli-picnic site above Aradhéna Gorge-Agios Dimitrios-Aradhéna bridge-Sellouda-Agia Roumeli-Palaiochora-Kedrodasos-Elafonísi-Chania

The journey of this year (04-05-2024) had three goals together: to prove what all these screws, wires and a splint in my leg (after the operation of my ankle in the middle of December) allow in steep terrain with rough stones underfoot off a path, to see - after a longer time - spring mountain flowers, and to reach next summit over 2200m (Modaki, 2224m) towering above the plain Katsiveli. I should have said the leg withstood OK, the mountain's slopes were full of crocuses, scillas, creeping cherries and others, and we reached the summit of maybe the nicest (and bicolour) peak in Levka Ori, so this holiday was full of successes.

We (I was in Crete, as usual, with the fellow who follows me on all my Cretan adventures) had to change the standard voyage getting to Chania. To get here from Prague using Aegean Airlines was not possible yet (the same at present) because the flights from Prague and the next ones from Athens didn't connect well - if we used this way (as we did it many times) we had either to stay at the Athens airport for many hours or to fly via next flight across Milano or other airports (the time of such journey from the moment of the first boarding in Prague would exceed maybe 8 or 10 hrs!! horrible!!). Therefore, we chose another way - to use a (comfortable) train to Vienna (Austria) and fly from it by Ryanair directly to Chania. It should be said, there are big differences between check-in in Vienna and Cabo Verde (our last journey). In Vienna, we might retain in our backpacks a small pocketknife and a lighter as well; in Cabo Verde, they confiscated (and I'm convinced rather stole) all these (for us, travelling with the tent and preparing and eating our meal outdoor, essential) things.

The travel went well, all connections connected OK, and, in the evening, we landed at Chania Airport at a good time, so that successfully catch a bus to the city. The room booked in the Alena Hotel (just a three-minute walk from the main bus station) waited for us and we could leave our backpacks there and head for dinner in the city.

Our trailhead intended were either the village of Lakki or the site Xyloskalo at the Omalos plain. Nevertheless, as it was just the end of April, no proper bus connection existed for the present. There were several possibilities then - to take a bus to the village of Agia Irini and walk first along the road as far as the entrance into the Agia Irini gorge, and from this site to follow the E4 route as far as Omalos/Xyloskalo (it takes about 12km), or to take the same bus but leave it earlier at the site called Seli which is on the top a range with many wind-power stations and try to catch a lift to Omalos (about 14km) here. In both these ways, there could be a great problem with water - therefore it was so early, not season yet, most of the taverns and snack bars (on Omalos Plain or at Xyloskalo) could be closed which would mean water couldn't be available. As this bus left very early in the morning (at 5 o'clock!!) we couldn't as well buy some necessary (a gas cartridge, bread etc.) before it left, therefore, we decided to use the last possibility - to take a later bus to the Botanic Garden. This site is not so far from the village of Lakki, and it seemed to be a good option: we could either walk along the road for about 6km or maybe catch a lift. So, in the morning we did all - to buy the necessary, have breakfast, and take the bus (at 10:30). Shortly after 11:00 we were on the branch to the Botanic and not so far later a small car stopped to take us to Lakki. The driver was a lady, the owner of a tavern in this village. About noon, we were at our trailhead and could set off. There was news here - at the start of the trail, a new information board was placed, with a map of all the new and marked trails in the Chania district. We set off along the path which we knew well hiking along it more times but unfortunately didn't catch the place where it turns left down. Therefore, we had to go on as far as the bed of a gorge and hike along it down without any path (sometimes even a little bit scrambled). However, in this way, we joined the marked path again and we could follow it as far as the dirt road between the site called Fokyes (being on the main road between Lakki and Omalos) and the saddle of Poria. At the site where the path joins the road, there is a big water tank for surface water (rains and sometimes snow) only. Here, we continued without any break along the road to the second similar water tank and just for about 100m farther we left the road to the ruins of a mitato to find a proper site for the tent somewhre here. As we found it, we set out back to the (second) water tank to fill bottles, however, a small problem appeared here - a big plastic container on a rope, using which water can be collected, was so awfully and beastly dirt so that we decided not to use it and used my plastic bottle with a wide neck fixed on the rope (with a small stone). Inside the tank, there were indeed steps from its opening down to the water level, but these were rusty clamps which we didn't trust. So, we were supplied with water well and returned to the tent to prepare (first) dinner and to sleep then (at an altitude of about 900m). The next day, we walked along the dirt road up in an easy gradient heading for the saddle of Poria. In the morning, clouds were lower, the tops of hills were covered in them, and the temperature was not too high so thin long trousers were a good option. In addition, the wind started to bloom. Nevertheless, later, in the afternoon clouds disappeared and ran high, the sky was blue suddenly and the breeze was nice. Higher, under the saddle, many flowers bloomed just next to the road, and I could take many photos. To the Poria saddle (1485m), we came soon, later in the afternoon, so we had a lot of time to take water from the overground water tank (using the same way - by my plastic bottle), do a short walk around, visit the shelter for tourist and to pitch here the tent (inside, the wind through small windows raised dust sometimes, and to be/sleep here free, it would mean to breathe it). Outside, the wind got stronger but excellent views of Gigilos, Volakias and other summits over the Gorge (Samária) were so attractive, we couldn't tire of them. In the morning, it seemed the wind became quiet, the sun lighted and we hoped to come and see the first real mountain flowers (crocuses, scillas and others). For about one km farther (from the shelter) the (marked) E4 route branches from the road and starts to ascend like a footpath winding among rocks and stones. Soon we got to the first remains of snow and, as well to the first mountain flowers expected. At an altitude of about 1700m, we got on a plain. Here, one or two good campsites for the tent can be found. Beyond this flatter area, the E4 route ascends again to reach the top of the range (at about more than 1900m) and the first large snowfield, as well. Fortunately, we hadn't to cross this large snowfield, the route continues along the top of the range upward but then it comes to the next and higher saddle (just under the summit of Melindanou, 2133m), and here, we had to cross the large snowfield on the slope falling to the Samária Gorge. The snow was partly melted on its surface, but we didn't flounder too much, just for ankles only. From this point, the route practically descends only (except for several short ascents) as far as the saddle/plain called Pirou. However, the first and largest plain is Plakoseli, where there is a pit like an underground water tank, unfortunately, with poor water full of goats and sheep droppings. Into this pit, water from the whole plain is collected, including these droppings. The descent finishes at the saddle between the plain of Pirou (with the mitato of the same name) and a lower wide valley which is step by step turning into a small plain Petradhé. This point is the lowest one in this part of the E4 route. From here, the route ascends only as far as the next plain Katsiveli. However, in our itinerary, this site (Petradhé, 1780m) was the site for overnight. So, we left the E4 to the right and down and hiked as far as the flat part where there are more good sites for a tent. In addition, only about 5-7 minutes of walking down the valley (here, called Potámos) there is a well with excellent water (fresh) year-round and a plastic canister on a rope available for collecting water just next to it. What may one wish for more? We did all necessary - to supply water, pitch the tent, prepare dinner and den into sleeping bags. The next morning was the same, as the previous ones - the sun and the blue sky. The E4 ascends next to the mitato of Klissidhia (several years ago repaired, till then partly in ruins) and runs along the well-built old kalderimi as far as the plain Katsiveli (1900m). Coming here soon, we left backpacks inside one unlocked room of the mitato, and with a daysack only (water, thin windproof jacket, something to eat and brandy - for health when reaching the summit) set off upward to reach the summit of Modaki. We found new markings at Katsiveli - obvious green-white marks on stones and rocks which ran first in a direction we needed but later on the top of low range got away, so we left it and headed for a pile of stones to the left following the range. (These marks probably show the circular trek from the saddle of Rousiés, upward to the summit of Páchnes, down under the Modaki slopes and to the Katsiveli.) The pile was a shelter rather in ruins. From this point, we could watch well the whole Modaki slope in front of us. We chose the proper way upwards and started to ascent. First, the way is with the grey rocks underfoot, the stones were rather large, mostly flat and with sharp edges, and ascending here was without any problems. Low rocks followed (a little bit of climbing with hands) and above it, the rock of the surface changed - it was much lighter, coloured between ochre and brownish and what was more important - the stones got smaller and were more oval, this terrain was more sliding. On the very top, there is a concrete column about one meter high and the whole summit is very flat which is not visible from the bottom. The way down was first not very pleasant, these small stones and large gravel were sliding, as we had anticipated but lower, with the grey rocks and stones underfoot the descent was much better. Having a lot of time when coming down to the backpacks, we could explore if there was some water source. The water was in the large and square pit about 2x3m but the water inside was VERY awful, green, and looked thick, almost like a pea soup, and because it is not fenced, anything (including sheep and goat) could fall into it. Also in a concrete trough was little water and seemed to be rather clear, but it was only about 5 cm high level... However, the fellow revealed in the unlocked room of the mitato a 20-litre canister with fresh water, so we filled two bottles, and all was OK.

On the next day, almost all the goals were filled - screws in the leg, flowers and the summit, and now we had to enjoy the next part of the trek which was the way to the saddle of Rousiés. Just one unpleasant thing was the rather strong and cold wind, and another unpleasant thing was a large and deep snow drift (or high - it depended on from which place one can look at it - if from the bottom or from above) in about the half of the way to the saddle. The drift stretched under a range, on its lee side, from one slope as far as to the opposite one and was about (as I guess) 30 or 40m wide and perhaps 7 or 8m high. At first, the drift was rather flat (and firm, my boots almost didn't flounder) but for about 5m onwards, the drift created an almost vertical wall of about (above mentioned) 7-8m which we weren't able to get over. We had to go round to get on the path (well visible from above) again. Nice adventure!! As far as the saddle, there were any winter/snow merrymakings. On the saddle, we took enough water in the well again (the excellent water from a spring). On the descending path from the saddle, we met just one more the snowfield (not so large) and as far as the end of the Anopoli road no snow appeared. Here, we decided to take the road for walking. Hiking along the old and marked kalderimi seemed to take more time than walking along the road. On the road, there were remains of two big snowdrifts, but these copied the bank of the road upward, and we hadn't to cross them. The wind was stronger again and in the Ammoutsera Valley, we tried to find a proper windless site for the tent. Without any success. The small stone house stops being useful further as a shelter because its roof is ruined, but in the semi-underground water tank, there was enough water. The next option for overnight is a place called Angathopoi. Here, the old kalderimi branches off to descent through the Lagou ravine to the Anopoli plain, and not so far from the road, for about 100m, there is a wonderful site with several ancient cypress trees and some campsite for a tent, but also here the wind was still rather strong. Therefore, we went on down as far as the Kriaras (descent about 45 min), the site with several animal pens, the old well vaulted in an old style, and higher up ruins of a small stone house plus an excellent campsite under 4 cypress trees just next to ruins. First, we wanted to pitch the tent at the campsite under trees but as well here the wind blew, therefore we decided to try to make a place large enough for our tent, to be more protected against the wind. It was not hard work, to displace several stones didn't take a long time and the spot was prepared. The altitude of this site is about 1350m, which was (for us, accustomed to much higher altitudes until that time) nice, especially being protected against the wind. The last part of this first trek was through the Lagou ravine as far as the Anopoli village on the Anopoli plain. We came to the tavern in the village just about lunch. This meal was the first one in civilization after several days of eating meals from bags. And several beers, and coffee, and Greek salad special - a speciality of this tavern...such a feast... Then we took water and with overfilled stomachs set out on the road again, to get to a picnic site above the gorge of Aradhéna hoping to spend the next night here. It is a nice site for being here over a night. During the day, especially when some holidays are, this site used to be full of people with cars having a picnic here, with music, rich tables of meals, and usually with screaming and yelling children. But in the evening, cars with their crews step by step disappear and the site stays quiet. However, when we came here, there wasn't any holiday, thus as well no people, and we could spend the nice evening, night and morning, too. For the trek the next day, we decided to avoid the Anopoli village, and when returning (along the same road as yesterday) we left the "main" dirt road to the right at a certain place to follow such a field track, and in this way, we got on the main bitumen road across the plain just in front of the church of Agios Dimitrios in the hamlet of the same name. Here, the old kalderimi starts. It overcomes a hill above the village and comes on the main road not so far from the bridge across the gorge. In the kiosk with liquids and light meals, we did a stop to refresh a little bit, to buy a supply for the evening (beers, chips etc.) and continued as far as the excellent campsite Sellouda, among our favourites. It is among several cypress trees, at about 580m, with nice views of the sea to the south, and of the mountains to the north, and one can see from here even a thin tongue, a projection into the sea with houses of Palaiochora far to the west. On the next day, we descended along the old kalderimi on the shore, stopped by the tavern, washed our bodies in the sea under the mouth of the Eligias gorge and in the afternoon came into the informal campsite near Agia Roumeli. There was staying surprisingly high number of tents, and all our favourite sites were taken!! Nevertheless, we found a site good enough and when our neighbour his site left the next day, we stayed there almost alone. In addition, this man left at his site a small and only partly damaged plastic table, which we immediately displaced to our tent, and because two (again - only partly damaged) were staying here, we had here for the whole our stay a luxury living room for eating and spending evenings.

Our main employment here was to visit tavernas, to do some shopping and sunbath with (for me short) swimming - the water was just about 20 degrees which is not - for me - for a long stay in it. As the last part of our holiday, we decided to repeat the trek from the previous year - from Palaiochora to Elafonísi. Therefore, we took the ferry to Palaiochora and first, set off by bus to the site Krios. At this site, there are two beaches - one for people wearing bathing suits, and over a rock the second one for the naked. Nevertheless, the service didn't run yet, the kiosk was closed, and nobody was on the beach. The E4 route runs across both beaches and beyond the second one, the path starts ascending, winding among rocks to meet a dirt road. But the route follows the road shortly only, soon it branches off to descend as far as a small bay with some archaeological artefacts and many potsherds in the sand of a small beach. A strong wind went with us, and it was a reason why we didn't pitch the tent at the site intended and had to find another one more protected. The holiday was approaching its end, and on the next day, we had to shift to the Elafonísi beach (or to its proximity). We set off the last part of the trek. It meant to ascend a little bit at first and from the top of this part, a cluster of trees hiding the small church of Agios Ioannis could be seen in front of us in the distance. There is just into the church area a pipe with fresh water which we took. The path runs down from this site to reach the shore, then leaves it and climbs up for the last time. From the top, we could see the first beaches and as well the area called Kedrodasos (= Juniper Wood) which is a sparse forest growing on sand. Here we found a nice informal campsite for overnight. The next day was for us the last one on the southern shore. We set out on the last trip not very early and came into the central part of the Elafonísi beach area well about noon. This whole area is within the European system of protected areas Nature 2000, and due to it, we can meet two fenced areas for the protection of rare plants (e.g. Androcymbium rechingeri, which is restricted to this part of Crete only). On the other hand - the beach here was horrible - completely crowded and I don't understand WHY people are keen to go, often for very long distances, to this place, and mostly they lie on sunbeds under umbrellas which could do everywhere on the northern coast, often much closer to their accommodations. Next crowds of people are wading in the shallow bay between the island and the shore, or staying here... So, we bought cans of beer, sat down on a bench under a tree, emptied cans and went on westward to look around this area. Formerly, we had an idea to find a campsite here but when we saw posters with warnings and prohibitions of camping in the entire Natura 2000 area, we were glad to anchor in a distance and walked to this place for a visit only. Then we returned and pitched the tent at the site which we registered earlier, under big junipers and with a small private bay+beach in the distance of about 20m only. Here, we spent the last night on the southern shore.

On the following day, we reached the village to take here the bus at 16:00 and about two hours later we were in the room in Alena Hotel again. Because the hotel is so close to the main bus station, we didn't have to wake up too early on the next day, had breakfast in "The Sweet Corner" at the bus station and took the bus to leave for the airport. The journey home was OK, again via Vienna (by plane) and to Prague by train.