Crete Island - Levka Ori (White Mountanis)

Kámbi – Volika Refuge – Lívada – Katsiveli – Páchnes – Anopoli – Loutro

My first Cretan holiday in Levka Ori when hiking through parts without any footpaths, markings etc. At that time, we didn’t have any hiking map disposal and had to use a road map only on which, indeed, some footpaths were drawn in, but in a sequel, as we could see and learn, it was rather judgement (or wish) than reality. Nevertheless, despite some problems, in particular around the summit of Spáthi, we didn’t get lost and got over mountains on the Anopoli plain all right. This trek is the object of this description, however, our holiday continued then along the E4 route following the southern coast westward (via Loutro, Agia Roumeli to Sougia). This adventure took place mainly in Sep 2006.

FRI 25/08 – Using a Czech low-cost airlines company Travel Service, dep. at Prague-Ruzyně Airport at 2340, seats A+B, i.e. the left side by the window. Meal: an awful sandwich (dry bun + something uncertain inside) + 2dcl of a soft drink.

SAT 26/08  – Arr. at Herakleion (= Iraklio) Airport at 0315 (almost on time, the time in Greece +1 comparing the time in Central Europe). Check out and luggage OK. Beastly crowded, mess. At 0600 by the first city-bus to the city, €1.10 as far as Plakia Eleftherios ( = Square of Freedom, the main square). Dawning. Ten mins walking down to the main bus station. At 0730 the bus to Chania (€11.45). About 1000 in Chania main bus station. Shopping in INKA supermarket (in near 1866 Square, with a park) – a cartridge for gas stove, bread, tomatoes, water etc. At 1100 the city-bus (service No.8, €1.10) toward Chania southern outskirt, the village of Nerokouros. The bus stop of this service is off the main station on a street just behind the bus station wall, directly ahead of the entrance into the bus station hall. A journey about 30mins. The bus stop in Nerokouros is about 5mins of walking near a church. On a bench outside it, in shade, to shift travelling clothes for hiking ones. A supermarket over the street – additional shopping (more water – together about 5lit per person!!). After a light meal on the road, set off upward over the first hills southward. At first, along village streets and lanes, then the bitumen road winding slope, with goats, off and on melting asphalt, and burning sun. Several cars – attempts at getting a lift but nobody took us. Almost at top of the range of hills – elevation of about 500m – to branch southwards and down along a shortcut. Through the villages of Kondopolula (a supermarket, with First Aid – cool beer!!) and Katochori. Shortcut through the village and just behind it got a lift (finally!!) as far as Kámbi. This village was our trailhead. The evening was approaching. No tavern (both closed), no shop, no water source. As a dog died here. The bus-stop just beside a church and near a road sign with (among others) inscription VOLIKA (Βολικα) which meant we are well here. Going along the street to mountains as far as Y-junction. To the left, it is to some villages (or better – hamlets). The road as well with asphalt however it disappears later and it is unsurfaced as far as its end (under the Volika Refuge). The whole distance by the road is about 15kms, whereas by hiking route through the gorge it is much less - just about 5-6kms. However, when going to the right (toward a direction to which an old wooden tourist sign points), it is along the bitumen road as well but only for about 1km. Necessary to leave the road and branch toward a hamlet of Geroprinos. A lane past several houses and then a track through a small shallow valley (goat’s + sheep pens and barns). Behind the last barn upward left as far as a small plain with stony fields and low stone walls. First view of Spáthi, a peak which will be a good landmark for basic orientation later. Somewhere here overnight.

SUN 27/08  – After breakfast upward the slope, get over two fences and through thorny thickets as far as a dirt road, visible at the evening from the place of overnight already. On the road to the left. Shepherds filled water troughs for goats, so our water bottles were filled as well. Further by the road, across a small gorge and before a descent into the second one (much more mighty and deep which is running as far as under Volika Refuge) to turn right upward. No path, no marks, scree and stones underfoot. A fence across, one part openable (a wicket). Beyond the wicket a footpath, an old kalderimi with supporting walls here and there, and with black-yellow sign poles over its last third!! Kalderimi running as far as a dirt road under Volika. Short ascent looking for own way among stones and low rocks to the refuge. Short refreshment and resting. From Volika, directly up to a crevice between rocks to the next sign pole. Not so far behind small plain covered by a thicket of Berberis and on a small place, better rather wider sandy animal path, finding a site for overnight (bivouacking, without a tent). All the day without water supply, but according to the map, about 400m from the hut should be a water source, southeastern ward. Maybe following green marks, but who knows?

MON 28/08 – Next early morning to the pole uphill above us but next one was the last one. Subsequent trek without any marks (no cairns, no colour marks, no distinct footpath), just the pointed Spáthi was a very good landmark. On and on without water, necessary to save it strictly. Traversing SW slope to the right heading for a saddle. Around a lot of pot- and sink-holes like in a karst area. Very wild, or even a little bit dangerous area, completely dry, without any water source and even without any hint of moisture. Hiking around  Spathi following its lower flanks. Trek goes on then along a ridgetop southward. Here, cairns came in sight. From the ridgetop to turn right and slightly down but before full descent to turn to the right following a small flat ridge between two depressions to ascend. From the hilltop (big cairn), a small plain covered by low bushes and sandy paths among them. To go over this site to reach an edge above a much larger plain or doline which is called Lívada (which means "meadow"). Down looking for own way. On the bottom – many animal's paths, and using them continue in approximately the same direction as far as a shallow depression filled by sand and fitted by several concrete troughs and a well. And in troughs – WATER!!! Finally!!! Being thirsty, almost dried up (more than a half-day without any drop of water under conditions of hot air, burning sun and difficult ascent), we ran amock of water and drank and drank. Troughs fed by black pipe laying on the ground, thus water quite hot by the sun. Above water source on the top of low hillock remains of mitato – stony shepherd's shelter (called Lívada, as well). Parts are in use until now. The important site, such an intersection of ways which come here: the E4 route from Katsiveli Refuge, or from Omalos plain, if you like, then a part of the E4 from the massif of Kástro-Fanari, and even the plain of Askifou, and the last one is the trek from Volika and Spáthi. Lofty peak right – Agio Pneuma (2262m). The footpath (E4) runs southwestwards from Lívada mitato through a valley as far as Katsiveli Basin (or plain - the largest mountain plateau in Levka Ori). Big house (Katsiveli refuge, alt. around 1900m, in that year with destroyed corner; locked) in the saddle above the plain. Lower on slope two small buildings – shepherd's shelter (mitato, locked) and "touristic" mitato with bunk beds inside, unlocked and free for overnight. Water troughs on the bottom, almost without water, but if one would like to get the water it was necessary to suck the pipe first. Inside a former animal's pen (stony walls around considerably destroyed) wonderful site for overnight in a tent.

TUE 29/08  - Early morning to get up and set off toward Páchnes (2453m), the highest peak of Levka Ori. Near water troughs, a signboard pointing (among others) to this peak. The route is clear, well-trodden kalderimi which finishes (after 1.5-2 hrs) on a saddle (maybe fourth, or fifth) with a small house and large well with good water (Rousiés). Leaving backpacks somewhere here, climbed up Páchnes (1 hour). Páchnes is a flat summit with a big cairn, wooden cross and a peak-book hidden inside a metal box on its top. Return for about 45mins. Short rest beside the water tank and then continue down following a quite good footpath which runs in places over black rocks like an entrance into hell. Rocks are so glowing one can't touch them. The path ends on a dirt road. Going on the road down first under flanks of Trocharis (2410m), the second-highest peak of Levka Ori. Several shortcuts, one of them runs near deep and narrow depth Tavkos Tis Lagonias – very bad terrain underfoot here. Using the road is much better. At about 1700m, a branch to the right (old kalderimi descending through a ravine Lagou as far as Anopoli plain). Overnight at its beginning, an excellent site under ancient cypress trees.

WED 30/08  – During the whole this day, descent through the ravine. Above a site where the ravine gets wider, ruins of a stone house are just beside the path. Lower, an old underground water tank (Kriaras) and some fenced pens. Cypress trees, oaks and maples around, lower pines as well. Difficult walking due to high layers of needles (slippery, and with stones hidden under it). Ravine comes to Anopoli plain near a sheep pen. Along the dirt road as far as Anopoli (alt. about 600m) to get well-earned beer in a tavern!! Later along bitumen road to a hamlet of Kambia. From here, old connection southward down to Loutro, recently a tourist destination only. Overnight just behind an old stone wall around a garden with several palms and some vegetables at Mourniés peninsula. And (FINALLY!!) bath in the sea.