Crete Island - Levka Ori (White Mountanis)

PRAGUE – ATHENS – CHANIA – village IMBROS (bus) – gorge SFAKIANO – town SFAKIA – gorge ILINGIAS – plain and village ANOPOLI – chapel AGIA EKATERINI – village ANOPOLI – picnic site above gorge ARADHÉNA – crossing over gorge ARADHÉNA – village ARADHÉNA – place SELLOUDA – gorge ARADHÉNA – place MARMARA – route E4 – place SELLOUDA – village ANOPOLI – chapel AGIA EKATERINI – town SFAKIA – CHANIA (bus) – ATHENS - PRAGUE

There were two main goals of this my holiday – to watch spring flowers and to try finding of a possible connection between a chapel of Agios Pavlos in the Sfakiano gorge, and the end of the local service road from the Anopoli plain and the Skarfídhia spring. And for such purpose, I decided to keep off the high mountains and the highest point which I should have reach is the end of the road above mentioned at the altitude of about 1230m. I found the eventual way from Sfakiano to the road on Google Earth. This winter was extremely snowy (even at the beginning of May when I’m writing this text there is so a lot of snow drifts which had perhaps never been here before) and there were a lot of floods in spring which damaged many tracks and roads and also several bridges and near water-courses standing houses. Rivers themselves, mainly these running to the north from mountains and their estuaries, were changed and damaged. However, as I could see later river/stream beds in the southern part of the mountains were changed as well. For me, new treks should be the beginning of my way from the Imbros village into the Sfakiano gorge, its continuation from the Sfakiano to the end of the Anopoli road, the trek from the western top of the highest crossing over the Aradhéna gorge to the village of the same name and also a footpath from Sellouda into the Aradhéna gorge.

TUE 19/03 – Due to the early departure from Prague, I should get into Chania (Crete) in time to catch supermarkets just opened which is important for buying a cartridge for my gas stove. The plane landed shortly before 1900 and because the traffic in the airport was very low (we were only a single landing/taking-off aircraft) our baggage appeared soon enough I could catch a good bus service into the city. So I was in the city and hurry up to buy my first gyros and one of the best local beer – Mythos – and eat it up sitting on a bench at The Square 1866. Buying these very important items is for me almost a part of my special „religion mystery“ because I’m really DOING it for more than 10 years and many times even twice a year. After eating, I set off toward my traditional site for overnight on the Neo Chóra beach even though when we overnight here for the last time (in the last year) somebody tried to get into our tent around the midnight. Fortunately, I didn’t sleep yet and when I loudly enough called „Do you have a problem, fucking bastard??“ the person disappeared immediately. I really was a little bit nervous what could eventually happen now, when I am single here, but on the other hand – the second half of March is so early before the season is starting I told myself anybody wouldn’t be here. However, when I got to the end of the street where a small bridge (for pedestrians only) is over a river, rather a different problem arose in front of me – the river was indeed running under the bridge but it had created another river bed just behind the bridge which blocks the way to the beach!! So, what to do…the street bends here and continues parallel with the river slightly up and I decide to follow it hoping to find a next chance to get over the river. And indeed, not so far from the small bridge, a bigger one (near a sports hall?) appeared. I got on the opposite side of the river easy and following a good pavement again down, I was on the beach in a short time. I found here a camp-site for overnight in a distance from the coast and spent here not very good night (very wet air and sand on the ground and sounds of far cars and motorbikes during whole the night).

WED 20/03 – In the morning, I got up early because I could hear the voices of people not so far from the tent. These were workers building a nearby hotel complex. The sun didn’t rise yet but the temp was nice comparing with this in my country when I left. However, there was very humid air and the fly-tent was completely wet by drops of dew. I packed this disgusting thing hoping it will be enough time later for drying it up. I did an inspection of the shore. Horrible view!! The river in the time of floods brought remains of reed and other mess into the sea and the sea washed it up on the beach. And the best way how to clear it up is to set on fire and inflame it!! Therefore, sand on the beach was black by ash and I was curious how dark will be people taking a sunbath later – maybe a local speciality? A very cheap suntan lotion? Who knows… Next part of the day was as usual – to buy something for breakfast (in Sweet Corner – a coffee in the main bus station), to buy the cartridge and to buy second gyros + second Mythos for lunch to eat it up on a bench in the park (The Square 1866) again. Nice time!! Weather was very friendly, warm and sunny and I almost couldn’t see through getting out by bus to my trailhead.The bus was leaving at 1400 and came to the village of Imbros (the trailhead) for about one hour later. The bus stop is just beside a tavern. Nobody was inside. I settled on a terrace both to have my favourite „double-combination“ (which is beer + Greek coffee), to switch on my GPS device and to do the last setup for walking. The first part of the way was along the main bitumen road (running to Chóra Sfakia on the southern shore). Rather a good walk without heavy traffic and with many excellent views into the depth of the Imbros gorge, now empty. After about 1.3km, in a sharp turning of the road, there is a branch, a local dirt road is starting here to ascend and reach a rim of a side gorge of the Sfakiano. So, the real beginning of my trek was just here. The way through a ravine was not very difficult (about 2.3km and for about 300m higher) but its surface was very damaged by spring water, it was very rough with some drains of a different depth. When I reached the top almost dark started coming. On the top, another dirt road from the right is coming whereas to the left (for about 100-200m) a building is staying here, maybe a water cistern, maybe an animal shed… Continuation of my trek was down into the gorge but it was clear the road will be very long winding slope in long loops and when I reached its end (on the opposite slope the chapel of Agios Pavlos in Sfakiano) dark was there. The dirt road down is nice and well built and its first section is also used by cars. However, this, for cars good part, finishes at a point with several places for beehives because not so far from this place, the slope above the road slid down over the road and even though for walking people it is not a serious obstacle, for cars it is a terminal. Such disturbances are repeating several times before the road crosses the gorge. It is running along the opposite side for a not very long way but because the lower section of the road is running under trees it was really dark now and I mused on if to switch my head torch or not. In the end, I got at the terminal of the road without the torch and now, I had to find an animal’s path running „against the stream“ of the next gorge (which is Sfakiano) to get at the point where the gorge can be overcome easily. Nevertheless, thanks to the darkness, I didn’t find it and started descent too early. Therefore, getting on the gorge bed was a little bit challenging but to climb up then to reach a path leading to the chapel was much easier. I reached the chapel in darkness. Now, to pitch my tent and to prepare dinner – and I could go in the tent to spend my first night „in the mountains“ (in spite of the altitude is here about 770m only).

THU 21/03 – Sunny morning, sunny day but the night wasn’t very nice -  strong wind started blowing and because its gusts hit the almost vertical part of the fly-tent, in the end, I had to get up in the night and turn the tent to be with its sharp side against the wind. In the morning after breakfast, I explored both the chapel inside, a mitato – stone building of locals standing here as well (a low house with horrible mess and very wet inside) – and also water troughs lower down. In troughs, there was indeed water but not from a pipe which was empty and dry, water was coming from rains probably. It seems to be usable but either after using a filter or boiling. Yesterday when descending into the (side) gorge, I also did a visual inspection of slopes where the next part of my trek should have run and it seemed, the real conditions differ considerably from these which I had viewed on Google Earth when doing my itinerary – slopes were much steeper and in addition to it, covered by rough gravel or scree. An idea, I climb this slope with the heavy backpack…I almost resigned yesterday already, and now, according to first views in the morning these my findings were confirmed. Nevertheless, I decided – at least – to go to ruins which were distinct on GE and therefore, I left my backpack not so far from the chapel under a rock and climbed nice slope covered by a meadow with many flowers and sparse low trees and shrubs opposite the chapel. On top of this open slope, I found an animal’s path and went on along it. It came under trees and after a short distance, supporting walls of an ascending old mule-track (called kalderimi) appeared. Following it, I really got to ruins of several houses created one complex. On the side facing the gorge, there were several nice terraces in different levels under this complex. They seem to be a good site for overnight!! But, I’m afraid, without any water source. The way to here (from the chapel) can take not more, then 30mins. When returning, I noted a fork where the „mine“ way continues down whereas a second and very good kalderimi branched left and runs upward winding in the forest. I decided to follow it being curious about where it is leading. It is always ascending in a rather easy gradient and here and there marked by cairns. After next roughly 30mins I decided to return. Because the kalderimi runs always under trees I couldn’t guess its next course but according to the map, it MUST get to the former village of Kali Lakkoi. So, I returned as far as the fork of kalderimia and went on down. Surprisingly, I discovered next fork a little bit lower!! But this kalderimi which branches here is much smaller, not very well visible and running rather down than up. However, it seems it runs to a mitato in Sfakiano, about 300m upward the chapel. After all these inspections, I came to my backpack and descended into the gorge lower the water troughs. Directly under them, the river bed was very rough, it looked like two comrades – a digger and a bulldozer – were doing here hard work. There were high heaps of material piled up, and just beside there were knee-deep ditches… But this wilderness is not for a long distance, as soon as this river bed joins with another one, the river bed gets much wider and its surface is not so rough. The truth, all cairns disappeared and most of the marks (blue-white) as well but the difficulty of walking got much lighter. Now, it is rather light walking on the river bed with stones and pebbles underfoot. Very strange was the existence of a pipe on the left (eastern) side of the river bed which runs for very long distance still down the gorge. Nobody can get lost in the gorge because its walls are steep, almost vertical and if one keeps going just down, it is OK. There is just one but the short section with small problems – a rocky terrain step with big boulders and rocks in the middle of the bed. But if one keeps on the left side just beside the rocky side there is a good path tightly beside it along which this section can be overcome well. I met one surprise – after a certain distance from the chapel (I guess, it must be behind the halfway) I could hear running water. After a short searching, I found the pipe (which is running from the chapel standing higher up – as above mentioned) from which water poured. Floods damaged, broke it and now, water was disposal from its loose end. The whole way down through the gorge is about 5km. As soon as one comes to the area where the gorge opens there are two possibilities how to continue: either to climb the old kalderimi on the right side or to go on along the gorge bed to reach the main road from Sfakia in this way. I decided for the kalderimi. The way above gets on the open terrain/slope. First, it runs outside an olive orchard, near two animal’s shed and finally, it starts descending toward the road. It is a track with far views of the south. The wind which was in the gorge finer suddenly got much stronger. The track reaches the road just opposite the entrance into a naturist resort. On the side of the road to the sea, there is a pavement. Now I walked along it missing a parking place for machines big vehicles, then a petrol station and just near a tavern there is a short-cut steeply downslope which comes near the parking place for buses. There is also a bus stop here and on the staircase coming to here from „the city“ was a huge rock which slid down due to spring heavy rains. Now, I had to decide where to overnight – I had two possibilities, either to continue to the gorge of Ilingias and to my favourite place or to take an area around a small church above the harbour. Because the strong wind persisted I thought the northern wind will run through the gorge whereas the church seemed to be hidden behind cliffs. A bad message – water source on a child playground (from a pipe in its rear part) beside a kindergarten didn’t work!! The same with a tap on the rock on the church terrace – no water… A supermarket was still closed, the same as almost all taverns – the season will start much later. Just one tavern was open and I decided to go there for dinner, beer, coffee etc. I shifted into my overnight-site when dark was coming slowly. Rains did considerable damages also on the street heading for the harbour – many big boulders and rocks felt down and only half of the street was disposal. The church is standing at a nice place about 15m high from where it is looking down on the whole harbour and a part of the city in the background. I made a bed on a wide step in front of the entrance into the church, sleeping just in the sleep-bag, without the tent. But gasts of the wind reached sometimes my bed and therefore, I took the fly-tent to cover myself by it.

FRI 22/03 – Neither this night was nice, the wind made noise and also all the lights in the harbour made conditions more day than night. Therefore, I didn’t stay here for a long time, just for preparing breakfast and hurried up in the “downtown”. The bakery was open already and the smaller supermarket above it as well but I didn’t need anything and went on through the city to reach the main road going toward Anopoli. The morning was sunny again and when I reached the road the wind came again. However, as soon as I got to a bridge over the estuary of the Ilingias gorge the wind disappeared and I regretted I stayed in Sfakia for overnight. I was curious in which state my camp-site here has survived the spring floods but although it was well apparent water had to roll down it avoided the camp-site which is standing a little bit up. I went on through the side gorge through which I went through many times in both directions. There are about three or four rocky steps between 2 and 2.5m high and as well here water worked and under every step (water had to run over them in shape of small waterfalls) hollowed shallow bowls not deeper than about 50cm. Nevertheless, I got over all the difficulties rather well and to the first target – the lowest waterwork under a double column –  I came in good time. Water was pouring here and most of the bees (which usually occupy water in the trough) were drinking on the ground, so taking water was not difficult or dangerous. Above this waterwork, there are still two next ones. Above the highest one, the treck is running along the old kalderimi winding zigzag up the slope as far as the main road. Now to cross its sharp bend and continue upward following the kalderimi with supporting walls again. This part of the way finishes in front of a wire gate. Here, I left my backpack to take a short rest above, under masts towering on the top of the hill. From the top, there are exclusive views of (snowy) mountains rising above Anopoli. After the break, down to the gate, put the backpack on the shoulders, open/close the gate and continue down along a track. Here, the first nice flowers were growing (Anemones and others) in a good amount. The track is not so long and in a short time, I was on the bitumen road again. Just about 1km and I came to the centre of the village – it is a circle square with the white bust of the local hero Daskalogiannis in the middle. And from this point, there is only about 100m to my (almost) final aim – the nice tavern called Anopoli. To say hello to my friends, to have their special Greek salad and beer and coffee...having a nice time... For overnight, I used a shelter beside the chapel of Agia Ekaterini high above the village. The chapel is standing on the place of a former small fort/castle, with large terrace around, and ruins of the old building were rebuilt into a shape of a small house with openings instead of windows and door only. I decided to sleep on the terrace without the tent again hidden against the wind behind the low wall of the terrace but as soon as I spread all my things and made my bed, the wind turned and I had to go inside the shelter. From the terrace, I could see in the east the peninsula with the fort of Frankokastello and Psiloritis mountains in the background, down under the chapel the tourist destination of Loutro with the peninsula Mourniés, and to the west, the sun sinking into the sea. (Finally!!) The nice night was waiting for me (as I supposed) by as soon as I hid into my sleep-back, I learnt, I had to go up again to do something with a big (Greek) flag flying in the terrace corner and flapping emitted horrible noise. After several attempts, I succeeded to fix it by a piece of wire on its pole and just now I could sleep well.

SAT 23/03 – Finally the nice night!!! As usually, sunny and warm enough. I prepared breakfast, packed all my thighs and left to "a garden" under the northern side of the terrace where I could see in yesterday's evening many flowers and it promised a rich harvest of photos. And really, there were so many Anemones in different colours and also several plants of Barlia which is a species of Orchids and many next flowers. So, after such a big success I returned down to the tavern to celebrate it having beer and coffee. And I took water reserves because I didn't know where I would finish that day. I intended to get to the highest Aradhéna crossing, overcome it and continue down not so far from the gorge rim to reach the Aradhéna village but as I had never read anything about this possible trek I wasn't sure how long and how difficult it could be. The beginning of the trek from the tavern was along the bitumen road running to Limnia, a village northward Anopoli. I was walking in the sunny day. On both sides, there was a plentiful and abundant growth of flowers. The most interesting for me were Orchids - two species were growing behind a fence but not so far, therefore, was able to take photos of them. The first one was rather common Orchis quadripunctata, whereas the second one, Orchis papilionacea, was a new one for me. For about 1.5km there is a fork, where I took the left road which is covered by bitumen as well but for about 200m only its surface turns into the classic one of the typical dirt road. Several tracks branched to both sides but I walked always straight ahead as far as to a big water cistern where the road turns to the left (an animal shed is here as well) and when it leaves trees, another, but partly underground water cistern is on the left side. Not so far from this point, there is a fork but it is not important which track is chosen - both are running to my first aim - a picnic site above the Aradhéna gorge. However, the better one is the left road from which a marked footpath branch. This spot is shortly before a turning of the road near cypress trees. The point for turn-off is marked by a cairn and there is a green-white mark as well. Nevertheless, to the picnic site, one has to continue along the road slightly upward and for about 300m this site appears. There are many long tables with long benches but at that time, all was covered by resin from pines. After the pause, I returned to the road turning where the marked footpath begins and set off along it. About 50m meters across open terrain with low rocks and big stones and then the footpath heads for to the right to approach the rim of the gorge. Green-white marks are not very frequent here but cairns point the way well. As soon as the path comes above the gorge it descends winding the steep slope and becomes a well-built mule-track with supporting walls here and there. It took just about 10mins and I was on the gorge bed. It is flat and almost level and next way was along it “up”, thus to the right and after perhaps 50m I was at the path’s bend (to the left). Well marked by several marks and cairns. From this point, the path ascends the opposite slope and for not so long time I was on the gorge rim again but above its opposite side. The nice place under pines even with the possibility to find here a nice camp-site, of course, without any water source. The marked way continues upwards and finishes at the place called Krousia at about 1200m but I was about taking my own way down parallel with the gorge, at a distance of about 50-100m from its rim hoping to reach the village of Aradhéna it this way. The trek wasn’t too difficult. As soon as I got from the forest, the open slope follows with rocky terrain overgrown by phrygana (a growth of undershrub plants, the synonym is garigue). After a certain distance, I got into the first area with woods. This part has the shape of a huge and wide “trough” with several low walls running across it. Behind it, a low crest is, not more than 30m high which I had to overcome (easy) and the open slope was here again. And these patterns were repeating – open terrain slightly down, trees in a gully with low walls across it, the low crest etc. This was repeating perhaps four times. However, behind the last one, there was no crest but almost flat terrain with sparse woods and then I met the first mark of civilization – a fence. It seemed the fence was rather new. I tried to follow it on its (left) side closer to the gorge but the fence was approaching the rim of the gorge and the end of my effort came when the fence finished on the top of a rock falling vertically down into the gorge. I returned and noticed wires which join single parts of the fence are weaker at a corner of the fence. I tried to dismount it and when succeeded I was inside the enclosure. It was not a typical garden, nor an orchard or a field, actually, it was a piece of land without any maintenance. So, I headed just down hoping there could be another weak part of the fence or a gate but although I followed a considerable lower part of the fence, I didn’t find any. All the wires joining parts of the fence were so thick it wasn’t possible to remove them without good tools. I was almost captured and it seemed just one possibility how to escape was to return high up to the place at which I got inside. However, in the end, I noticed one pole of the fence was a little bit skewed, downswept and after a time of hard work, I succeeded to bend it so down I could get over it. Horrible!! But I was outside and can continue. This event took maybe one hour or even a little bit more. However, what to do now? There was an apparent path (animal’s? human’s?) running down but not so far from me there was a gate into the next enclosure!! Despite the door of the gate was open I wasn’t sure if I should go inside or preferably to continue outside the fence (after my last experience it was very a hard decision!!). But in the end, I took a risk and decided to go inside because it seemed (after a visual inspection) this enclosure could finish among olives and if there would be some fence it could be much older, thus it could be easier to get over/through it. And really, as I was descending the open slope, the fence across my way rose but it was old and there were so large openings in it even a big boar could go through very comfortably. So, I do it as well and was immediately under old olive trees growing on the slope. And it was my victory because lower down terrain levels, fences around a pond appeared and I was walking on the flat ground with bright green low grass underfoot. Not so far and I came to a track leading to the old kalderimi which is not so far from the bridge over the gorge and which is in use until now (of the course, by tourists only). And by this track, I was in a short time at the place of First Aid which was a kiosk with refreshment beside the bridge!! The staff indeed just open this kiosk for the season but despite it, I got a beer and even though it wasn’t cool it was like divine mana for me!!! I took water reserves here as well and set off along the main road heading for Agios Ioannis but after about 2 or 2.5km I branched left down to a local road which bore me first at a crossroad, here to the right and after about 200m to turn left into the forest. Now through it, then out the forest and not so far from its margin there is a footpath branching to the left (marks on both sides of the track) which leads to the place called Sellouda where is an excellent camp-site. I use it for many years, it is a really nice place above cliffs falling down to the southern shore with the Agios Pavlos beach. I came here when darkness came. I pitched my tent and prepared dinner with a light hanging on a cypress tree branch and with a head torch. Nevertheless, because this day was very hard for me I fell asleep almost immediately when I got inside the sleep-bag.

MON 24/03 – For the oncoming day, a circular tour (from Sellouda to Sellouda) was waiting for me. After breakfast, I set out in reverse direction (comparing with yesterday's way) – back into the forest and farther as far as the crossroad. Also on this day, the sun was shining intensively and as I was at a lower altitude (under 600m) it was hot. Near the crossroad, a marked footpath leading into the gorge of Aradhéna is starting. People who did marks were convinced every user must be an idiot because although there is ONLY ONE very well visible path through low bushes and despite it, marks are perhaps for every five meters. The path is going lower and lower into a gully and more and more branches of trees or even the whole dry trees were falling down across the path. Here, marking is much less frequent and one has to find the own way to get through it. There are sections which are more difficult and these which are easier but generally, it can be said the entire way down on the gorge bed is moderately difficult. From the gorge bed, the marked path continues upward opposite slope as far as the village of Livadiana high above settlements of Likos and Fínix on the southern shore, but my way went on down the gorge. It is rather easy except several blocks made of rocks falling down where one has to climb down among them and here and there must use hands. The biggest one is the last one as well and it is the most important because in the middle of it there is a good water source. As soon as I got on the gorge bed again, there was a short way to the gorge estuary called Marmara. I’m afraid, the tavern on the top of a rock was off but I cadged beer in a man guarding the object and then I could lay taking a sunbath on warm sand of a small beach to have an excellent time with the bottle of (surprisingly cold) beer!! Until a moment when a flock of goats appeared and until a big and very fetid buck though I am a good object for begging of something. To lie on the beach with the fetid buck just beside is not my cup of tea, therefore I left, took my backpack and continued along the coastal E4 route hoping either getting to Sellouda or taking a good camp-site in the pine forest above the Agios Pavlos beach which I had known already. Nevertheless, any of these ideas came true. Formerly, I intended to get to Sellouda climbing under columns of power line but because there was dark coming already when I came under this slope I decided to run my plan “B” and stay near an underground water cistern in the forest. However, how big was my surprise when I got at that place and I could see a tent staying here!! I have never met anybody from the moment when I got out the bus in Imbros village several days ago (of course, except “civilization” in Sfakia, Anopoli, Aradhéna and Marmara) and just now – people on the way!! So, I had to go on in dark under trees hoping to find a proper place for overnight before I had to descend on the beach. And I really succeeded – I branched up along the (marked) kalderimi running upward to Sellouda and not so far from the fork I stayed directly on the path at a place where it was a little bit wider under a big branch of a pine. Even though finding the place for overnight wasn’t easy, in the end, this camp-site was so good enough (calm and warm) I could look forward to spending the nice night again.

TUE 25/03 – Despite my camp-site was so “unconventional”, the night itself was nice. And as a bonus was the fact, it was just on the way up. In addition to it when I ascended then after about 15 or 20mins there was another very good place for a tent!! Just beside the path, on the top of a small terrace... Climbing up to Sellouda was as usual, here and there with excellent views of both mountains and the coast. Higher up at Sellouda I had a short break and continued along the way through which I walked even twice during this my holiday. As soon as the dirt road ascends from the crossroad its surface turned into the bitumen for a short time and in its sharp turning, I decided to try to take a short cut (to the right) heading for an animal shed far over about two shallow gullies. It is really the short cut but its end is tiring – one had to reach the main road climbing along the fence with rocks underfoot. But I was on the road again and during not more than 30mins I was in the kiosk with refreshment again (to keep a liquid regime faithfully). Sunny time, with excellent views of snowy mountains...what to say more...!! After the pause, I go on over the bridge and then to branch to the right to follow the old kalderimi toward the village of Agios Dimitrios from which it is just 1.5km to the Anopoli tavern. I didn’t need to hurry I had got enough time. In the tavern, dinner with the checking of email communication and all the news. For overnight, I decided to use the Agia Ekaterini chapel once more. The flag was removed and for this night I was about pitching the tent (without the fly-tent) inside the shelter (a little bit windy).

WED 26/03 – The day of well-being. I could get up later and I really did do it. Sunny and warm again. Breakfast (as usual, oatmeal), slowly down to the tavern (the standard double-combination – B+C [beer+coffee]), then a stop in bakery to buy bags with their local Sfakian biscuits and go on down along the road. To branch on the track under the hill with masts and through the side gorge into the main one – Ilingias. Here, a short break at my favourite camp-place and continue down as far as the main road again. To follow it for about half of km and down in the city (Sfakia). The strong wind blows again even down in the town. I visited the area of my previous overnight beside the church above the harbour but because the wind had turned the church was the very windy place now. And not the church only – very windy and thus, also very wavy was the sea. Wind-rode waves hit cliffs and were reaching very high. So, what to do now. I almost decided to spend the night on a step of the staircase behind a kiosk where bus ticked are sold but – fortunately – I decided to look at the ruins of a castle/fortress above the city. And it was a good decision, despite there is a notice camping and the setting fire is prohibited here, I found a good place for overnight hoping nobody will check it so early before the beginning of the season. Because there was still a lot of light I returned down and walked to the harbour watching huge waves which the wind swelled up, and around the town and as soon as dark was coming I shifted to the castle and pitch the tent. On the street down almost no traffic and also any person was walking on the pavement. I set alarm on my mobile because I need to get up in the early morning (when dark is still) to pack all things and to get to the bus stop. The bus to Chania should be leaving at 07:00.

THU 27/03 – The last day of my stay on the southern coast. I packed in time and without breakfast left to the bus stop. The bus came on time and the way to Chania was as usual. In Chania, I put my backpack in a luggage room (large boxes into which even two rather big backpacks can be put; 2 € per day, 3 € if you are going to leave it for a  night) and had plenty of time. The weather was indeed sunny bud wind cooled fillings. I sit on benches westward the Old Harbour, walking through the Old Town, having freppé and classically gyros+beer etc. The last time before leaving Chania I spent in the café Sweet Corner in the main bus station, doing checking-in of my flight and checking also news, weather which I could expect at home etc. Almost the last bus to the airport brought me there for overnight. Usually, to overnight in the hall of the airport is not very nice, planes take off or lend for most of the night which brings a lot of people and noise but now, before the season, the last plane took off about 11 o'clock p.m. and the first-morning one was “the mine” starting at 0625. So, I had got so a lot of time of calm and in addition to it, the air-condition in the hall was running just in the “winter” mode, thus there was warm enough.

FRI 28/03 – Check-in, boarding and flying to Athens was OK, and also here all run as usual – not so long waiting for next flight (during which I had a coffee and bought small bottles of Ouzo – a local drink) I arrived in Prague on time. Except long waiting for my luggage, all things run as usual as well – the friend of mine, Aleš, was waiting for me (this time without his wife) with a can of beer and the to go home by city traffic.

And at home – I could think about my next holiday in Crete, which should be, for the time being, actually in the Gavdos island sometime in September or at the beginning of October.