Crete Island - Levka Ori (White Mountanis)

(CHANIA - the plain of ASKIFOU/AMMOUDARI) - refuge of TAVRI - plain of NIÁTOS - KOUTALA SELI - saddle under ASKIFIOTIKO SOROS - SIDEROPORTI - the area of PAVLIA HARLARA - ANOPOLI road- saddle of ROUSIÉS - the summit of PÁCHNES - under MODAKI - plain of KATSIVELI - E4 - under MELINDANOU - saddle of PORIA - refuge of KALLERGHI - XYLOSKALO - the plain of OMALOS - the place of GRELESKA - the village of KOUSTOGHERAKO - SOUGIA - archaeological site + beach of LISSOS - the plain of KOUKOULE - E4 - the beach of GHIALISKARI/ANIDRI - PALAIOCHORA - (CHANIA)

1^st day – 23/05 – Our shift between Prague and Chania (with a break in Athens) was OK, the last night-bus in front of Chania Airport was waiting and weather was much warmer than at the place of our departure - all of this was a great plus. The journey from the airport toward the city takes about 30mins, and despite the time shortly before midnight, there was a rather normal traffic jam on streets, like whenever during a day, and all bars, pubs, taverns and similar facilities were crowded. We headed for The Square of 1866 to buy first gyros and a can of the best local beer (Mythos) + water and went away to the beach of Neo Chóra where we intended overnight our first Cretan night (like usually used to do). We decided to pitch a tent because remembering how wet (from dew) one can be in the morning when camping near the sea.

2^nd day – 24/05 – The morning excellent – warm and sunny, and the sea similarly – indeed a little bit wavy but luring to swimming. And we did do it. Then a breakfast (pieces from a local bakery) and before the noon to shift toward downtown. Gyros, beer, a cartridge for a gas-stove – and we were prepared to set off by bus (to Sfakia) towards our trailhead in the village of Ammoudari (the Askifou plain). Refreshment in a tavern (beer and Greek coffee) and hurry up for the track. First along a bitumen road and in its hairpin to leave it and take E4 signposts which point the whole way as far as the Niáto plain. The way (a well built and well-trodden pavement) is always ascending and most of it is in the shade of cypress trees. We tried to identify places on which we sank into often even waist-deep snowdrifts in March in the last year, and we found some of them. We came round in the Tavri refuge for a pause, last mobile messages (last mobile signal for several days), and continue to Niátos. Across the plain as far as the road on its remote side again, then along it up and down to the first cistern under the big tree (near there is the first E4 signpost pole of an ascent to Kástro), but going on towards the next similar cistern (called Katastromeno on the ANAVASI map) for spending here our second (but the first mountain’s) Cretan night on my favourite spot.

3^rd day – 25/05 – This day an expectantly difficult ascent of Kástro (2219m) was in front of us. The first signpost pole is near the upper cistern, several tens meters upward along the dirt road, about 2-3m from the roadside. The well visible footpath is winding among cypress trees, lower shrubs and rocks and due to the end of May, all plants around was green and juicy. The path is well waymarked – marks (yellow-black) on rocks, and E4 poles standing on distinctive spots (to be well visible from a distance, especially from below). There are 2 (very short) parts where one has to use hands a little bit to get over a rock step of about two or three meters high. As soon as the way gets at a flatter area it turns to the right and heads for the top of northern crest along which it continues with rough stones and rocks underfoot. On each pinnacle of this crest, there is the E4 pole standing. The E4 route leaves the top of this range in a shallow saddle, stops ascending here and runs to the right from this spot. At first, it contours the flank but soon it starts descending. This whole part is well waymarked (marks on rocks + E4 poles here and there), and because Koutala Seli (= a saddle) is well visible thereunder everybody can take his/her own way down then. (Note: As I got knowledge after my arrival home, there was rather new waymarking around this range creating "a lower route". Simon Stutz, one of “crazy lowers” of Levka Ori, took a part in making marks in co-operation with members of EOS, a mountaineering club from Chania, a couple of days before we climbed there only!!) Nevertheless, back to the E4 route on the ridge. Because we had formerly had an idea to reach Kástro, now we continued from the shallow saddle upward, without sings already and not so far above the saddle stopped for a rest. But the wind was rather strong and one of its gusts (despite the fact we were on the lee side) hit the backpack of my mate who accompanied me and knocked it down the steep slope. It rolled down, jumping on/over rocks and because it wasn’t closed almost whole its content came out staying to lie around its way down. The backpack stopped moving for about 100 altitudinal meters below but one bag with all clothing jumped like a ball much lower. So, as soon as all things stopped moving we set out to pick them up. Fortunately, the backpack (Osprey, Atmos) didn’t undergo any serious damaging (despite very sharp rocks – maybe it is made of good material?) except one smaller hole into one outer pocket, we also found all thing (except aluminium windshield of the gas-stove), so the most serious damaging was a bag with clothing (several ruptures but all things stood inside) – thus, any big damage. However, collecting of all things took a rather long time, and as still before this event, I had felt I had been too slow for reaching the summit of Kástro during day-light (and mainly to reach in day-light a spot suitable for spending the on-coming night), we decided to change our plans and omit to reach the Kástro-summit. So, we went on down again to join the E4 route under us to descend along it on Koutala Seli and then on the floor of a big doline under northern slopes of the Kástro-Fanari massif for spending first mountain’s night at almost 1800m.

4^th day – 26/05 – This day starts with the full sun and cool temperature (but markedly above zero). The E4 route runs over the floor but there two possibilities how to continue: either to take wider and flatter valley to the left, or climb a narrower and a little bit rocky gully to the right. The way to the right is the right one. The good footpath, a smaller platform for one level higher (also good for a tent), and then yellow-black marks disappear for a certain distance and finding cairns is necessary now. The way makes “S” and then climbs to get on a higher level where one can see E4-marks on a rock in front of him/her again. Now, to follow these waymarks as far as the top of the ridge. Under feet, a view of a deep mountain’s formation opens. To the right one can see such an enclosure of a valley in form of an amphitheatre whereas to the left there is a head of a wide valley - perhaps one of the wildest area in Levka Ori, called Mavri Lakki which could be translated like “Black Hole”. And actually – it is an area full of sinkholes, swallow holes, small sandy/gravel places, rocks and other rocky formations… and this all in dark grey or black colour. It must be grim-looking when clouds are in the sky...Like a real moon landscape. The marked path is running down and to the right, crosses the bed of the valley and climbs up the opposite slope. On the top, there is another E4 pole. E4 is running then contouring the slope and just under above-situated col under Askifiotiko Soros (2210m) we met (finally!!) remains of a snowdrift. So, here we decided to supply our water reserves by thawing snow. We obtained several litres in this way, therefore we weren’t compelled to save water too much during the whole next day. In the col under Askifiotiko Soros we decided not to climb up because terrain seemed to be scree which could slip down what could enlarge the time of our way, and continued along E4 to the next conical peak – Grias Soros (2331m). The route makes such a curve to the opposite saddle (called Sideroporti on the ANAVASI map = “iron gate”) here. This place is an excellent outlook, one can see even northern shore with its towns and villages, the Souda bay, also the runway of the Chania's airport; and also a mobile-signal is here. Here, we left the E4 route heading roughly southward and hiked on the lower part the of Grias Soros slope as far as such a bridge linking slopes both “Soroses” in a distance. To hike over this bridge, to go on traversing slope slightly down, then steep rocky formations and climbing steeply down on them, and finally a flatter floor between Pavlia (2084m) and Askifiotiko Soros where suitable spots for bivouacking can be found. To get for one level higher on the base of Pavlia’s slopes is not difficult, then head for next summit (Ghoniasmata, 2042m) which is the last one of the great range with the highest peak of Kakovoli (2214m). A line of rocky outcrops is falling down from the Ghonioasmata summit, and to get over it is the best to head to the right under the top. As soon as one gets over, the astonishing view opens under feet – wild and actually flatter area, full of both flat places together with some rocks, holes, single boulders, gravel and sand deposits, and in this part of the year also with large greenth. All this framed by the opposite slope with a line of the Anopoli road carved into it. We descended on the bed and found an excellent campsite, inside rather a circular almost enclosure enclosed by rocks. Magnificent and magic place!!! Indeed, when the sun sets behind hills temperatures fell down but although we expected the nigh could be very cold and therefore some night clothing could be necessary, it wasn’t a big problem, at the end…

5^th day – 27/05 – This morning was sunny again even though before the sun reached our campsite air was cold. Our apprehension of the cool night was wrong, despite so rather high altitude we slept without the necessity to put on something more. Breakfast like usually – a porridge + coffee + tea. I was looking forward to hiking through this flatter wild area to reach the road and my expectations were satisfied, one must walk there to soak up all its beauty and wilderness! However, as soon as we reached the slope with the carved road above us we took an old mule-track under it to continue (to the right) but for about a half an hour we were on the road, too – the mule-track crosses it. For the next way, we took the dirt road and for several kilometres (3? 4?) were at its end. From this spot marked footpath (red or red-white waymarks) led us up (30-40mins) to the saddle of Rousiés (2135m). We came there just in the time when a large group of holiday-makers (not genuine hikers, according to their mostly unsuitable clothing) finished their descent, shivering and of the dark blue colour of their faces from strong icy wind (the truth is, although still at the end of the road lower, or rather mediumly warm weather can be, but from the saddle as far as the summit, more or less strong and in this time of the year also almost icy wind usually mostly blows – and they did not guess how big this difference can be). Formerly, I’d got such a weak intention to climb Stérnes (2335m) towering just above the saddle, which is lacking in my collection of summits over 2300m, but it was clear it wouldn’t be enough time for such “detour” because we wouldn’t get on the plain of Katsiveli (for overnight here) in daylight. Therefore we climbed Páchnes (2453m) “only”, the highest summit of Levka Ori, along the well-tramped (and well-marked) footpath, with a keen, piercing and cold wind whipping our faces. I’d been on this summit about 5times before but now there was a novelty – a long pole, maybe a shorter and thin mast (about 3m?) anchored by ropes in 4 directions, with a solar panel and a box below, but it was broken, perhaps a gust of wind? It should be probably an automatic weather-station but I’m not sure… Also, the nearby summit – Bournelos (2362m) I hadn’t climbed till that time and also this adventure was in our itinerary (as a facultative one only) – but also this idea wasn’t filled (it is a long way on its summit because there are actually two summits along which one must hike) – the reason why not is the same like in case of Stérnes – and we hiked straight down heading for the foot of Modaki (2224m), nice and bicolour conical peak. This track is not used very often, I was there just once but it could be a shorter way between Páchnes and Katsiveli,  shorter than to go back to Rousiés saddle and toward Katsiveli from here. The way under Modaki is marked by cairns but one has to have an idea where the right way could run to find these cairns. On the descent from Páchnes, cairns are not in good frequency at first but their number is rising, and also we added some of them. We reached Katsiveli rather early, after four o’clock p.m. and thus we had enough time for finding water (NO water neither in troughs nor in front of shepherd’s mitato at that time!!) and for pitching our tent, preparing the campsite and cooking+eating a diner. We stayed on my favourite spot inside a former enclosure with remains of stony walls around (as I could read on the internet, this enclosure should be a former field where even potato was growth in the past!!). Also now we prepared ourselves for the cold night, it should be at the highest altitude for the whole holiday (about 1900m), therefore we put on some “night clothing” before we crept into sleeping bags but our expectation proved false again – we had to open sleeping bags a little bit due to warmth in the night.

6^th day – 28/05 – Because we didn’t have enough water (neither full litre for both) for this morning we had a porridge only and a couple of gulps of water and set off along the E4 route heading for Pirou. It is only slightly over one hour (the way, mostly descending in pleasant gradient, is nice, winding among several lower crests running down from both sides of the valley). Just before this place (Pirou) and slightly behind ruins of Klissidia mitato (partly renewed) we left out luggage here and set off down, on the flat valley's bed called Petradhé to continue down along this valley which is farther called Potámos because I know there is a well with water year-round – we strongly needed to supply water reserves. This detour wasn’t too long it took slightly more than one hour. With water, we did a pause at the spot under the plain of Pirou where E4 crosses this lowest point before climbing under slopes of Melindanou (2231m). The ascent now is friendly – ascending parts are rather short and as soon as one could lose breath a plain appears in time… Only the last ascent under slopes of Melindanou is longer and the E4 here is running just above huge cliffs falling down into a side-gorge of the main one – Samária. We left backpacks here to climb the top of a rather flat ridge. To find them when returning, we built a bigger cairn to branch right when going back. To reach the summit’s cairn in easy gradient took for about a quarter of an hour. Because the wind was still stronger and cold we didn’t stay there for a longer time, just for an outlook and taking photos, and hurried down. The subsequent longer descent was waiting for us from this spot. As we got lower and lower the wind was weaker and weaker (and less and less cold). We came through an area with large growth of Daphne (Daphne oleifolia) which should nice and strongly smell but it didn’t in the fact… Our next night (but the last in higher mountains) was on a plain not so far (not so above) from the road from Kallerghi/Poria, at an altitude of about 1600m. Like usually, the wind quieted down in the evening and we could fully enjoy this last day in high mountains. It was a little bit sad to abandon mountains with their peaks, hills, valleys, gullies, scree and rocks, and far views, but in front of us the sea was waiting for us – including the possibility to wash our bodies which was indeed, so not totally possible in “High Desert” but here... Like we can feel (and mainly smell), both our bodies needed it strongly. :-)

7^th day – 29/05 – This morning was fresh for the last time, so we had to leave this sleeping spot dressed in thin nylon trousers and jackets but just after a shorter descent we had to take it off and through the rest of our holiday, we wear only shorts and thin T-shirts from this moment. We got on the road for less than half an hour. Only about 10 minutes it takes to come to the saddle of Poria, to the stony house of guards of National Park of Samária. Short pause with making coffee from remains of water, taking photos of the massif of a dark “double-mount” Gigilos-Volakias towering on the opposite side of the Samária Gorge, and hurry up for a beer in the Kallerghi refuge. Longer and dusty ascent along the dirt road, then short descent, precipitous ascent through a short-cut on the road just about 200m from the hut, and  - FINALLY!!! – beer…. How nice civilization can be!!! After the break, on the road again. It is winding down highly above Omalos plain. In its fourth hairpin bend, the footpath toward Xyloskalo begins (red arrows and marks). To go through a gate in a fence (to close it then again!!), and till one hour we are on the bitumen road just beside the entrance into Samária. But it isn’t an object of our effort we make our way in the opposite direction – to a snack bar, for beer, coffee, pieces from a bakery, taking water supply…. And for a rest - because next way should be tiring and boring – about 1.5km down along asphalt as far as a fork, here to take left road (to Agia Irini, or Seleniotiko Gyros) across the southern part of Omalos. On the next fork, it is necessary to choose the road straight ahead, don’t turn to the left. Here, there were two bathing pools for sheep (Really!! Until that moment, I had never seen sheep walking in water half their body deep!!). On the left side of the road, there is an only shallow rounded pool with a green carpet around, whereas on the right side there is a rectangular swimming pool enough deep for swimming in this sheep spa but sheep didn’t want to take a bath and lay on banks taking sun-bath and sun-tan. But this bathing pool probably has obtained very good reputation because even seagulls arrived here. Because we didn’t want to intrude sheep’s deserved rest we continued as far as a cross-road where “our” road joins another one (from the village of Omalos). Now just about 1.5km and we are beside a small church of Agios Theodori on the top. Next about 300m and to branch to the left on the small local road, also with bitumen surface. About 30mins of ascending and we are on a plateau, the flat area with some pens and a water reservoir. We were here years ago but the place where we overnight at that time seemed us to be not very good by now, so we stayed not so far from the road, behind a large cypress shrub. The altitude of about 1100m. A nice evening full of watching and bleating goats. And warmth.

8^th day – 30/05 – Last day above the sea is coming – in the evening we should arrive in Sougia. The sun glares down from early morning, and we set out along the road with rather lighter backpacks because most of the food was eaten up. Behind the second hairpin bend of the road (some animal’s pens and water reservoirs are here, the place is called on the ANAVASI map Achladhiés) we left packs under trees and set forth light to explore a picnic spot which should be (according to the ANAVASI map) called Greleska) at the end of the road. At first, the way is considerably descending, thus we lose high, but for about 1.1km there is the end of the asphalt surface, however, the road continues like the dirt one. A strange stony building of size of a bus stop and of an unclear determination is just beside and pavement with wooden rails starts to ascend behind “the bus stop”. We followed it for a certain time, it is marked (yellow and red spots on stones and rocks). But because it heads for the direction out of the Agia Irini Gorge (the picnic place should be just above cliffs falling down to the gorge), we returned to the road and went on along it. About 200m – and we are standing on a terrace of famous and huge “stone” building (actually, it is probably made of concrete and by "stones" it is only faced) built in an arch. A large double door leads inside from the terrace but are locked, the same like windows. Inside, there is visible large space, with two fireplaces and door through the opposite wall (leading to the rear parts of the building). This part should serve for visitors, their refreshment etc., whereas the side-part could be for staff. It is about 50m from the terrace to the outlook above the cliffs of the gorge. Nice, really excellent place but I’m afraid it has never had been open, only big money are drowning there. Nevertheless, back on the road to reach backpacks and set off on the way toward the valley of Achladha and the village of Koustogherako. It is a nice track, mostly under trees, thus in shade, moderate ascending and descending, and rather well-marked (red spots and cairns). It is really nice but that day it seemed to be a little long – its second half is running over lower spines and one hope, it would be an end of this part just behind the range, and it isn’t, the new range appears….. At one spot (in a gully) another path is joining from below. I think it is the footpath along which we went from “the bus stop” near Greleska – the picnic place). But from this T-junction, the section the footpath as far as Koustogherako is marked by yellow-black “E4” spots. As soon as one gets in the Achladha valley (the spot is called Olysma), next 15-20min will descend through the wide bed of a stream (E4 poles and marks). On the spot where the valley gets narrower and tends to turn into the gorge, staircase begins on the left. It crosses over a lower range and when the way starts to descend ruins of some old buildings appears below among pine trees. This is the end of the dirt road from Koustogherako with several buildings of unclear specification (except a chapel and a pavilion). The E4 route cuts several bends of the road, then next short-cut through the forest and one more among trees to a concrete water cistern, and now only the dirt burning road is under feet. When an old laundry appears (drinking water from a pipe) in shade under trees, it is only about 5mins of walking to the first houses of Koustogherako. The expected tavern wasn’t working, on its terrace, a very old woman was sitting, and one, probably a little bit drunk man, strolled here and there with mobile by his ear, and as late as our several questions he said us resolutely “NO BEER” and he wasn’t going to talk with us more. There was just one decision what to do – to leave this village so fast how possible. Formerly, I was about to try the “upper” way to Sougia which starts just behind the second house on the left (when arriving in the village from the mountains) and runs to a chapel and as far as masts, from which it is not far downslope on the dirt road and by it toward Sougia. But in the village, we decided to go along the old connection between Koustogherako and the lower village of Lívadas. However, this choice was totally wrong, the path was overgrown at more section, we had to struggle through thorny bushes and trees…. I don’t recommend using it. Nevertheless, we were on the (tarmac) road again, thus now along it and in the first possibility to branch from it on the dirt road again. It is shortly ascending but then it goes always down as far as Sougia. Our first steps led to the supermarket (At Pelican’s), next to the benches to eat bought, and then toward the most important, and the most necessary place - a pebble beach beside a harbour for bathing and WASHING!! Because the day declines we hurried up to the ravine (the E4 route to Lissos and Palaiochora) where there is – after about 7mins of walking – an excellent site for pitching a tent behind a barrier of bushes (on the ANAVASI map, it should be an old threshing floor). We returned “to the downtown” once more for shopping and after it, in dark already, we went to sleep, finally at the altitude of the sea.

9^th – 12^th days – 31/05 – 03/06 – In Sougia. These days were days of idleness – beach, sun, frapé, beer, bathing in the sea, coffee, sometimes a dinner – well-earned relax. Weather was excellent, the sea too (even at the beginning of the June a person who likes and prefers warm water only, like me, was able to be in the water for a time longer than ten seconds….) We did also a trip toward Lissos (without backpacks) to peek if there is a proper site for short camping (we were going to overnight here for two nights) and just for one day later we shifted in the afternoon when warmth wasn’t so high. Finding a good spot under carobs not so far from the beach (but still better hidden by shrubs) where we spent two nice days with sun- and water-bathing, and because we brought several cans of beer (which were cooled out in the sea), evenings were very worthy.

13^th – 14^th days – 04/06 – 05/06 – In Lissos. The second day (from these two) was the day of a shift, we set out not very early in the morning to reach the beach of Ghialiskari (called also Anidri according to the gorge which emptied here in the sea). A short stop to have a look on several tombs, to ascend along E4 by the path which is here and there hidden under short trees providing small spots of shade, then to go across the plain of Koukole beside several goat’s pens, and as soon as the track changes into a classical footpath (not so far from the edge of descent), a narrow tongue of Palaiochora projecting into the sea was visible for the first time. We did a stop on the small beach after a couple of hours of walking (about 3 from Lissos), had a snack and sunbath, and afterwards set off again with backpacks on shoulders. This part is friendly without any exhausting climbing upward, the well-trodden pavement, always approaching Palaiochora, and when came to the beach we occupied immediately a table in local refreshment to have liquid bread (= beer) and some meal. With last people who left the beach with the incoming evening, we left for the easternmost end of the beach, found the nice spot for the tent (beyond shrubs and lower rocks) to return on the beach where took sun-beds and arranged a celebration of last evening on the southern coast (with Retsina and a box of peanuts).

15^th day – 06/06 – The day of another shift: in the morning get up, take breakfast, swim, take shower and walk along the dirt road to the city. The bus stop is beside a kafeneion where also tickets can be bought (for the noon bus). Journey to Chania takes about 2 hours. To change boots (taking sandals) for walking around the city, backpacks into a case in the luggage room and set off. Gyros, beers, frapé, some shopping…. and to the evening to collect backpacks and go to the beach for spending last Cretan night of this year (but not for me, I’m here at the beginning of October again).

16^th day – 07/06 – To wake and get up early enough to catch a morning bus toward the airport. The time of departure at 09:20. A pause in Athens (very long, boring time of about 5hrs) and landing in Prague according to the scheduled time. A friend of ours (Aleš) was waiting, so we took a bus and found a pub with outer tables in the city, and close our holiday here.